+
Thetford N3000 Fridge problems Posted by: Gordon Family 22 Jan 2017 1 Replies
Hi everyone ,I purchased my starcraft new in 2015 and ever since then I have only had a couple of trips away when my fridge has worked. I have had it in the repair shop endless times , they replaced the condenser, main board basicly everything, went away this week and no cooling again. ARRRR. My question is at what point am I entitled to demand the whole fridge be replaced . this is beyond a joke and is ruining our holidays.
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 22 Jan 2017
This may help you. Your problem comes under the "not fit for purpose" rules;

https://www.accc.gov.au/consumers/consumer-rights-guarantees/repair-replace-refund

You certainly should at least get a repair and what will happen is that you will get whatever is cheapest for the manufacturer, You may be able to claim loss of food....
You will need to be able to substantiate any claims that you have had it in for repairs "countless times" by producing the relevant paperwork.

I had a problem with my AES fridge that just kept freezing everything - -22 in the fridge part.... Took it back 3 times and eventually they discovered the fault was the charge of ammonia that had been put in was incorrect, can't be repaired so they replaced it...
+
Getting access to the satellite receiver Posted by: Jaycotoy 20 Jan 2017 9 Replies
I would like to make use of the PVR function of the satellite receiver in my Silverline 21.65-3 but I can't work out how to get access to the back of it to plug in a USB memory module. It appears to be glued into the cabinet. Any ideas please?
Bob.
Satking SATELLITE RECEIVERPosted by: Gezz  Replied on: 20 Jan 2017
Hi Bob, I have removed ours several times - lots of velcro on the base. Have fitted a USB drive (back-up disc) and it works a treat. HDMI splitter box is velcro to the top of the unit. Cheers, Gezz
Posted by: Mikerezny  Replied on: 20 Jan 2017
Posted by: Neil7  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
I also have this problem Bob, short of damaging the cabinetry I can't see how to get at the back.
Unlike Mike, my splitter box is mounted on top of the Auto Dish control box.
Access to back of satellite receiverPosted by: Jaycotoy  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Satellite receiver PVR etcPosted by: Jaycotoy  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
The photo I posted shows how my receiver was installed. Like Neil there is no way to remove it. Crappy workmanship. Bob.
SATELLITE RECEIVER PVR ETCPosted by: Gezz  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Hi Bob, You obviously have different model Silverline to ours, I assume the unit you are trying to get to is inside the cupboard (right side) - pretty dumb if they have not allowed access, ours was very tight but definitely velcro to the base - stating the obvious have you tried using a small mirror to identify the USB slot and fit the drive. We have a sphere auto sat dish, receiver and a satking decoder - the usb drive plugs into the back of the staking box. Cheers, Gerald
Satellite RX rear accessPosted by: Jaycotoy  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Hi Gerald, the satellite receiver is the unit at the top left, just above the radio. It is completely trapped with just the front panel showing. It is not even square with the front of the cabinet. One side is flush and the other side is about 5mm proud of the surface. I am going to ask the dealer to get it out for me. Should be interesting!
Posted by: Neil7  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Same same. I'll be interested to see how you go with the dealer.
removeal of satPosted by: Luckyone  Replied on: 22 Jan 2017
the little round dots on the facia panel just peal off and reveal screws. Pull the dots off and undo the screws and the panel will come off with a bit of gentle prizeing. the box is velcroded in so it takes some pulling to get it up. Before you remove it just put some light pencil marks where it is to alighn it up and put it back in place and screw the panel back on and the spots just stick back on. and then its finished and will look like its never been touched. I have done mine so its easy
+
Caravan & Weight Safety Operation Victoria Posted by: The whale 19 Jan 2017 4 Replies
the following is from the Caravaners Forum where one of the members is a keen vanner and is also a police officer in Vic, he has initiated the awareness program about weights of vans, campers etc and goes by the name Pathycop
The whole post is well worth the read but his initial observations are on page 16.

For the members here who are not member of Caravaners Forum its worth joining as there is lots more info there as well, check out the Dedicated Owners section and you will most likely find your van and tug brands

Posted by: The whale  Replied on: 19 Jan 2017
should be page 14
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 20 Jan 2017
Yeah Pathycop knows his stuff.
Most Vanners don't have a clue or give a choc dipped quokka about their weights...
Posted by: Gunpilot  Replied on: 20 Jan 2017
Hey Whale
Is there supposed to be a link or something in your post? You start out by saying "the following....." but there is no following that I can see
Posted by: The whale  Replied on: 22 Jan 2017
I'm sure it was there anyway here it is

http://www.caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=68041&start=260

it is here
+
range hood silverline Posted by: Max.bloggs 7 Jan 2017 3 Replies
my range hood was not exhausting to the out side of van because there was no hole drilled behind the external vent it now works after drilling a 40 mm hole hope this helps others
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 7 Jan 2017
Yes, I know Jayco drill around a 40mm hole and expect the 150mm fan to work as a compressor and exhaust through the hole.......
Heres what you have to do to get your range hood to really get rid of the cooking fumes. Byu a large louvre vent from Bunnings, see ; https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-100-x-100mm-brass-louvred-wall-and-cupboard-vent_p0811144
It will have a lacquer coating on it so you can spray it white (out of a can). Then I used a jigsaw to cut a hole out the same size of the louvres.
Before you start to cut though apply masking tape to the area to prevent the base of the jigsaw ruining the aluminium cladding.
Then screw the vent over the hole; use foam tape to stop water running down the exterior wall getting in., making sure you put it up the right way, yes I've seen them set up so they guide the rain in....
Unfortunately this is not the first time I have heard of this, an exterior vent screwed over a non existent hole, you have to wonder......
Posted by: BaldEd  Replied on: 22 Jan 2017
Range hood problems are not just for Silverlines. I have a 2016 Starcraft TL whoes Sphere range hood exhausts onto the solid external wall some 50mm forward of where the wall hole and vent have been mounted! Though some venting does pass out through the vent a large amount is vented out the front, above the range hood, due to poor mounting of the range hood to the cupboard above.
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 22 Jan 2017
Jig Saw and a larger vet seem to be your answer mate...

https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/building-hardware/building-construction/ventilation/wall-ventilation
+
Reversing up steep driveway Posted by: AndySue 21 Jan 2017 4 Replies
Have just bought a 2016 Dove Outback, and using a Subaru Outback. The car didn't have enough power to push it up our driveway, had to pull it up and manoeuvre the van around into position. Anyone else had this problem, or any tips?
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Ok so this is an all wheel drive Outback? What are the symptoms; wheels spin or engine dies?
I have 3 solutions none of which you are going to like.
A mate has a steep drive like about 1:3. He rigged up a winch and winches his van up he can do it single handed with the remote for the winch by steering at the drawbar.
I have a very tight space literally 50mm either side of the van so I put caravan movers on my van, not a cheap solution but its about the only way I can do it. Caravan movers may not have the power for a really steep drive, suggest googling them and ask questions....
And my best suggestion is to drive it up then fit a motorised jockey wheel to save the manhandling getting it into place. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/T-REX-Motorised-Jockey-Wheel-12V-Electric-Power-Mover-Caravan-Trailer-Boat-/131666780181?hash=item1ea7f3a015:g:CV0AAOSw241YfjJM
Is it an auto?Posted by: Wallyspike  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
While you don't say so, if this is an auto, all could be explained. A number of cars with auto boxes have torque limited when in reverse. This seems to be to protect mechanical components from over zealous use. (Mine was originally limited to about 100 Nm from a potential of 420 Nm.)

If this is the case, you may consider an engine tune/ECU remap from a reputable operator, but in the first instance, have a word with your dealer and see if torque is limited in reverse.
SubaruPosted by: Rebs  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
SubaruPosted by: Rebs  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Take two, must have pressed a wrong button!
Does one assume there is no low range on your car?
+
Sore Bum Posted by: Wassa41 21 Jan 2017 1 Replies
Had the same Commodore with our 23 Heritage sod pull out the dinning seating and replaced with recliners.
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
WAY TO GO!!!!!!!
+
AIR RATED WATER FIX WHEN USING YOUR DUAL TANKS Posted by: Wayne o 20 Jan 2017 10 Replies
To fix this problem remove the jayco 3 way tap selector which allows u to draw from either tank or both & bin it
Rock on down to Pirtek with the plastic junk 1 u removed before binning it & hook your self up with a couple of ball valve taps & a T peice with suitable push on type hose fittings for aroud $50 & that air leaking peice of plastic junk will be gone forever
HAPPY DAYS
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 20 Jan 2017
Hey Wayne thats simple and neat. Of course as you would expect I did it the hard way and bought a "T" type electric valve which is inside the van and I can swap tanks at the flick of a switch. Go for 2 wire control.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HSH-Flo-1-2-DN15-DC12V-Motorized-Ball-Valve-3-Way-T-Type-Electrical-Ball-Valve-/111393090703?var=&hash=item19ef8bac8f:m:mwT9ixHBH07HkjS9BalbGNQ

Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 20 Jan 2017
The switch is on the side of Hyacinths bed, No more do I have to go outside to change tanks over
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
After spending 3 months in Victoria's winter last year I like the idea of the electric switch. Where did you get the switch panel from?

Thanks
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Its a double pole centre off switch from Jaycar and the panel is a sticker I made up on the computer and printed out . The LED indicator is Bi colour 2 pin - change the polarity you change the colour. In my case the front tank is red, rear tank is green... It was cheaper to by 10 leds on eBay that one from Jaycar so If you want one I can send one to you....
There is no way to suck water from both tanks using this system, either one or the other...
Check out these links;
https://www.jaycar.com.au/dpdt-6a-240vac-heavy-duty-centre-off-standard-toggle-switch/p/ST0576

https://www.jaycar.com.au/bicolour-red-green-5mm-led-45mcd-round-diffused/p/ZD0250
Current draw.Posted by: Neil7  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Does this switchover have a current draw other than when opening/closing the valve?
PipesPosted by: Neil7  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
I take it you passed the suction pipes and delivery pipe up into the area under the club lounge & mounted the switch there?
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Ok to answer the valve draws around 150mA ONLY WHEN IN OPERATION. if the power goes off it stays where it is. The 2 wire version works on reversing the polarity to change over.
Yeah the "plumbing" if you look at the valve its a T shape. The cross of the T has an inlet either side. You connect one side to the rear tank the other to the rear tank the centre leg of the T goes to the pump. I mounted the valve using a length of 1/2BSP threaded brass tube from bunnings with 2 back nuts then ran the tube to connect with the pump inlet which was under the van.
So yes the suction lines were routed up inside the van to the valve inlets, the outlet went
directly to the pump inlet. The installation is actually under a bed.
I have posted detailed instructions on my own site re this including silencing the damned pump.
http://abb.activeboard.com/t62467394/silencing-noisy-water-pumps/ You would have to register to view it.
After being called a "keyboard Macgyver" and told my posts here are boring I'm reluctant to go into much detail here.
Being Keyboard MacgyverPosted by: Davidjeng  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Hey Hyacinths Husband,
Don't worry about the F$%^ wits , just keep on replying to posts and help those who need a bit of a guiding hand. F#$% the other lot that complain, no one forces them to read the posts or the forum.
Cheers,
David
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
David, you're being sensible. Its just that is gets up my nose when someone lacks the intelligence to read something they know they don't want to read just so they can sling mud. But what is of more concern is that those same people are on the road around us.....
When we are involved with an on line community like this one the first rule is to play the ball and not the man or woman, its OK to knock an idea if you have a better one but its not OK to sling excrement because you dont like someone. Absolutely nothing wrong with robust debate as long as you can keep the personalities of the debaters out of it. As you say if you know someone is posting hubris then simply ignore them and move on...

I have to try and keep things brief, I once won an award for "Most verbose reports"
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Thanks for all the information. I can see this being a goer for me. Just need to finish building the outdoor area at home first.
+
Photos Posted by: Wassa41 19 Jan 2017 3 Replies
How do you insert photos
Wassa
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 20 Jan 2017
Hey Wassa, now you have made your post there will be a little blue box that says "Insert Picture" bottom left under your post. try that.
sorry its Add PhotoPosted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 20 Jan 2017
And you have to wait for admin to approve it, that's to prevent me posting pictures of me in Speedos at the beach....
Now for an extra 20 points can anyone tell me what that Tram is pushing down the hill?
PhotosPosted by: Wassa41  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Thanks Hyacinths husband
Wassa
+
Charging my Caravan battery by 12v. Posted by: Jim2016 17 Jan 2017 4 Replies
Thanks everyone for your helpful comments about how to cool my fridge overnight prior to a trip, I purchased an Amphibian and it is working a treat.
My next question is:
The van battery is charged by car when running, or by 240v when at a powered site and a generator is used by a simple plug in.
I own a Jayco 2016 Starcraft and would like to know where do you plug in a Solar Panel lead to charge the battery.
Again many thanks for everyones help.
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 17 Jan 2017
Are you using a foldable panel or a fixed panel on the roof?
Either way you connect the panel via the solar controler directly across the + and - terminals of the battery. Mine will be wired in from the roof. For portable panels ( which work out more expensive) you can install an anderson plug somewhere to plug it in. I bought a 200 watt panel for $148 and a regulator for $20, best price I could get on a 200 watt folding panel was around $210.
Size of your panel will depend on how much power you use and how many Ah in the battery. 200W will give you at best around 10/11 amps so that would charge a battery thats had 20Ah taken out in around 3 hours ( there are inefficiencies involved) then after that you have 10 amps to run lights, TV and water pump through the day without draining the battery...
Best if you are charging by solar to switch off the battery isolator so that all your charge goes into the battery and not into the other electronics of the van....
Its a new area for me, I'm learning as I go along. Biggest problem is going to be bench pressing the 15Kg of panel onto the van roof...
Charging via solarPosted by: Wallyspike  Replied on: 18 Jan 2017
If you are going to mount the panel on the van, wire direct to the battery via a controller and fuse. If you are using portable panels, either install an Anderson plug wired to the battery, or make up a plug to match the vans wiring and supply the electrons via the same wires the vehicle does. If you have a 12 pin plug, this will almost certainly be negative on pin 10 and positive on pin 9. In either case, make sure the cable is heavy and the controller is relatively close to the battery.

The advantage of a panel on the roof is that is always hooked up, but it won't work if you park under a tree. The advantage of portable panels is you can chase the sun while parked in the shade, but there is more setting up.
Cooling the FridgePosted by: TheHeaths  Replied on: 18 Jan 2017
A good decision re the Ampfibian. I posted to your original question before seeing this, so well done. You won't regret it. As for solar panel, we have portable panels which are connected via an ammeter panel with Anderson plug, so that I can easily see what is going into the batteries. The regulator is on the panel (not ideal but came that way, and the ammeter panel is wired direct to batteries. Works for us.
Plug in Solar Panel Posted by: Treny  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Hi if you are installing on the roof your Caravan is pre wired our Jayco Starcraft has the coonection lead located near the battery. But not sure where it is roof cavity. Check with a Jayco Dealer.
Hope this helps.
+
Refrigerator vents Posted by: Jaycotoy 15 Jan 2017 4 Replies
Our Silverline has a Waeco compressor fridge. There is a large louvered vent in the side wall behind the fridge near the bottom and a vent in the roof above the fridge. Inside the caravan there are long narrow vents at the top and bottom of the fridge. I have noticed that during windy weather a strong blast of air comes into the caravan via the lower internal vent. If the weather is cold so is the blast of air. I am inclined to block off both the upper and lower internal vents because they seem superfluous to me. Can anyone see any problems that might create?
Posted by: Neil7  Replied on: 16 Jan 2017
Let me know how it goes, I have noticed the same thing. Also, I have noticed blowflies quickly find the 'highway' into the van via that external vent walking into the van through the internal vent. I have now put flywire inside the external vent.
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 16 Jan 2017
Are these the vents that allow air to cool the condenser at the back of the fridge?
If so it would be unwise to impede the airflow...
There is also mandatory ventilation requirements for the LPG to escape in the event of a leak.
We had the situation where the wind could get into the van through the crack around the fridge, it was about 5mm wide. Solved by getting some foam cord about 10mm dia from Bunnings ( its used in expansion joints) and pressed it into the crack with a roller thats for putting the spline into flyscreens. If the fridge needs to come out then it can just be pulled out...
Posted by: Dan135  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
I got some black foam off cuts from clark rubber and pressed into internal vents. Stops the gusts of air and insects coming through. Barely notice it.
Posted by: Neil7  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
That may be something for me to try, I notice the fridge seems to run (cycle on) excessively, maybe the fly wire is impeding air flow. I doubt it though.
Richard, this is a compressor fridge so no LPG to escape and, to my knowledge, no external condenser.
+
Jayco Seats Posted by: Terry 2558 11 Jan 2017 3 Replies
Hello everyone Happy New Year. We hhave a slight problem with the seats in our Starcraft. They keep slipping, somebody told me that can be remedied by using velcro on the seat and the board underneath. Can anybody suggest a better way or is velcro the best product to use? Thanks Terry
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 11 Jan 2017
There is a better way but it's a lot of work.
Rip out the seats and replace with recliner chairs....
Before we did that we had a similar problem but our seats had factory fitted velcro dots put on the under side at manufacture and what used to happen was that the Velcro would stick and the foam moved around inside the fabric eventually to the point it had to be taken out of the cover and put back in...
JAYCO SEATSPosted by: Terry 2558  Replied on: 13 Jan 2017
Thanks HH - yes that option would cost a reasonable amount and could be tricky with the hot water service under one of the seats but your right it may be the best option. In the meantime we will try the velcro and see how we go. Thanks again. Terry
Slippery SeatsPosted by: Treny  Replied on: 21 Jan 2017
Hi our Starcraft was the same we found it was due to having no support under your calf. Talked to a local upholstered in Echuca Vic he came and had a look and agreed. Took them away and got some foam from Clark a Rubber and glued it to the top of the front leading edge of the cushions. He the had to put a some leather buttons to make the fabric lay on the foam. Sounds complicated but pretty easy to do and looks good. Cost was $150 well spent and much more comfortable. Seats don't sag at the front and slip forward
Hope this helps
Treny
+
Water leek behind Fiamma wind out awning on our Penguin Posted by: Mikerezny 20 Jan 2017 0 Replies
Hi,
is it normal for water to leak between the awning and the roof of a Fiamma windout awning fitted to a Penguin. I can see there is a rubber sealing strip running along the length of the awning pressed down between the awning and the roof and there is a dob of sealant at each end. We have water dripping down between the awning and the roof just above the door.
My question is: is this normal or is it a problem with our Penguin that needs to be attended to?

regards
Mike