Jayco swift 2016 Posted by: David60 28 Aug 2016 NEW! 2 Replies
Hi just bought a Jayco Swift, and love it so far. Just wanting to know about installing a 12v pump 7and sink tap ware to it. Just wondering if any one has done so or knows what to do etc please. Thanks in advance. David
Water PumpPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 29 Aug 2016NEW!
G'day David,
Easy to fit pumped water to the sink. Why not go further and fit a mains connection also for when in caravan parks. What you'll need:-
- Shurflo 12V 4009 Water Pump (or similiar) pressure pump
- 12v control switch and wiring from a fused 12v source
- Clear plastic hose from tank to pump (low pressure feed line)
- John Guest (or similiar) pressure fittings & pipe for the delivery of pressured water.
- Sink tap, mains water inlet connector and 2 x1way valves or 1x 1way valve and 1 inline tap.
The feed line from the tank is simple to the pump in plastic tube, probably the same tube as feeds your hand pump now if the size matches.
The delivery line in pressure pipe (John Guest or similiar) when it has pump and mains water choice needs to block water flowback hence the 1 way valves. 1 valve on the delivery pipe of the pump to stop mains water feeding back into the tank, even though the pump has a small valve in it (that fails sometimes). 1 valve (or inline tap) behind the mains inlet to stop pumped water flowing out the hose connector. A T piece to join the pump delivery and mains inlet pipes then off to the tap.
Expect a few hundred dollars for the parts and all up an easy job.
Have a look around online caravan shops like RV Parts Express or Caravan Plus as they'll have the parts specific to caravans grouped together, get an idea then eBay or anywhere you want to purchase.
Advice is to buy a quality pump not a cheapie.
Closed CamperPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 29 Aug 2016NEW!
One further thing, you better check the available height above the bench when the camper is closed down before getting a sink tap. There doesn't look a lot of room there.
Outside power Posted by: TheSaulies 28 Aug 2016 3 Replies
Hi all
New to the site and caravanning
We have a silver line but can't seem to get power outside when not connected to mains???
PowerPosted by: Axe  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
"WTF" Are you talking about 240v mains power from the external 240v power point?
PowerPosted by: Ghislaine  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
Do you mean you can't get 12 volt power outside?
240 POWERPosted by: Don PL 5920  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
You only get 240v on the power outlets when you are connected to Mains or a generator. Have fun learning it all. We all started once.
Hot water light Posted by: Tonyp 28 Aug 2016 6 Replies
We have a silverline, and wish to know why don't they have an "up to temperature" indicator on the hot water system,I know when on gas if you look very carefully you can just see the dim light go out when up to temp,but when on mains there is no way of knowing, I'm thinking of installing a LED light linked up to the element has anyone done this or have a solution?
Thanks Tony
HWS Indicator LightPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
Hi Tony, 2 Things
The Gas control indicator on ours is bright enough to be seen in strong daylight. You may have a faulty one if you state that "if you look very carefully you can just see the dim light"
We have night tariff /boost indication on the home HWS, hardly look at it. Our Silverline, as yours, also has no electricity indicator and that doesn't make me want to install one.
We pay little attention to the Gas Indicator so don't need an electric indicator.
What we do though is keep track of the time since the electric HWS has been switched on before having a shower. Same for Gas, as we find the climate we're in is more relevant to the water temperature than having to heat the tank up fully everytime.
Hot water up to temperature on electricPosted by: Nearly there  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
Hi all
This one has got my interest
With gas you can normally hear the burner cut in and out thus is a light needed.
On elec another story , had a Luke warm shower last week due to hi temp tripping sometime in the night. Can't see haw it could be done with a LED but if it can I want one .
Please post if you find a solution
Happy travels
Posted by: Tonyp  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
We only turn on the HW around tea time for our showers,when I turn on the gas ignition it is bright red ,when ignition occurs the light goes out to be replaced by a dull glow same light but dimmer (hard to see)
I figured that on 240v I can run a lead to the inside off the power to the element ,when the element turns off so does the LED.
The gas is a different story,it must have a 12v feed to the switch,just need to connect into that feed with a higher wattage LED
What ya reckon
HWSPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
"when I turn on the gas ignition it is bright red ,when ignition occurs the light goes out to be replaced by a dull glow same light but dimmer (hard to see)"
On Gas ours is the same brilliance from ignition till the t/stat cuts the flame out, then the indicator light is extinguished. You may need to get yours seen to.

"I figured that on 240v I can run a lead to the inside off the power to the element ,when the element turns off so does the LED"
Yes the element will have 240V across it when powered and an indicator light would signal when the power is on. However the indicator light needs to match the voltage and you say LED which is not 240V. Above all this is qualified peoples area being 240V.

"The gas is a different story,it must have a 12v feed to the switch,just need to connect into that feed with a higher wattage LED"
As above, there must be an issue with your illuminated switch as ours is full brilliance until the flame goes out.
Posted by: Dave scott  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
I put one on mine. Wired up a 240 ac to 12 dc power pack ( of the 240 ac element) and fitted a resister and red led. I also did the same for the gas and fitted to a near by power point.
HOT WATERPosted by: Don PL 5920  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
Why don't you just turn the water on and put your finger in if you are in doubt. We can just hear the electric element heating and the gas roars (we turn the gas off at night because it fires up a few times). If you are in a caravan park you don't pay for power anyway.
Satellite TV Posted by: Verden 27 Aug 2016 4 Replies
I have a Satking vast box and satellite dish. When everything is setup I can't get a signal. I have the cable from the sat dish to the drivers side TV connection, I turn the antenna boost off inside and connection the cable to the sat in on my Satking box and get no signal. If I connection my cable direct from the dish to my Satking box everything is good, any ideas on how to get this setup properly?
Satellite TVPosted by: TheHeaths  Replied on: 27 Aug 2016
Verden, I don't have satellite TV but as I understand it, the connection will NOT work through the normal TV aerial input you are using. You need to either connect direct to the VAST box, as you have done and got it working, or use a dedicated direct through the wall connection especially for the satellite cable.
TV "Park" InletPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
Hi Verden,
We have a TV Sensor Pro where we have to select "Park" to get the outside (drivers side) inlet working. From your description "turn the antenna boost off inside " it appears you have the standard Starcraft fitout.
From memory of previous vans that had the standard TV, you had to turn the boost on to get any signal, even from the antenna.
Have you tried with the antenna boost turned on?
Posted by: Whale  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
"it appears you have the standard Starcraft fitout."
I must have missed the bit about STARCRAFT in the OP, however try the "PARK" connection as it works as I used it last week at a CP with bad reception but I connected to their cable
Hi WhalePosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
"I must have missed the bit about STARCRAFT in the OP"
You didn't miss it, it wasn't in this post. Last time Verden had a problem, a page or 2 back, Starcraft was stated. I answered Verden's previous issue and remembered Starcraft. I guessed that the van didn't change from last week to this week.
TOWING THE STARCRAFT response Posted by: Tassie Stephen 26 Aug 2016 2 Replies
Thanks for the response, there is so much ' miss information' out there re squeezing additional towing power from your vehicle. Even just noticed it on a popular Caravan Site . Suppose the old saying works ' Fools and their money are soon parted' . Cheers
towing starcraftsPosted by: Lionelo  Replied on: 27 Aug 2016
These 2 litre and 2.5 litre vehicles are not tow vehicles, they are a poor mans tradies vehicle. Get a decent vehicle with a decent motor in it if you are towing. Difficult to believe that people think they can get by with that rubbish. Chipping it up or adding crutches to it to make it work will cost you a hell of a lot more in the long run.
Posted by: Davidhew01  Replied on: 28 Aug 2016
I tend to agree with the above post, manufacturers specs on tow vehicles are unrealistic ( in some cases?) I tow a 2T ATM Jayco Outback van with a 2010 manual triton 3T tow capacity, fully serviced, no mods. Personal opinion with a couple of hundred Kgs in the tub it is at maximum limit while still maintaining some level of performance however even with theses weights taking off from a standing start is a PITA due to tall first gear and reliance of turbo (lag) . Hill starts are another story! I have also towed with a later model Navara and an older model Colarado and have pretty well the same opinion. Until I win lotto I am happy enough with my current set up,it is no rocket but certainly safe. I suppose it's all about matching your combination. So is a 2.5 litre dual cab ute a tow vehicle? Sure it is, as long as you are sensible about what you hook up to the back of it.
towing the Starcraft Posted by: Tassie Stephen 25 Aug 2016 8 Replies
I'm after a bit more grunt down low when towing the Starcraft with a 2015 Triton twin cab manual . Been looking at the Domin8or 3 inch exhaust to assist with a bit more toque on take off.
Anyone out there had any experience with them ?
Posted by: Afterburner  Replied on: 25 Aug 2016
What size starcraft do you tow first off. Have seen one triton ,one bt50 bent in half.due to over loading in tray area.both had air bags pumped up big time.bitumen no dramas but bit of undulating roads etc can create havoc. Imho..
Towing the starcraftPosted by: Rebs  Replied on: 25 Aug 2016
First, what has and overloaded and bent chassis got to do with the OP's question on a 3" exhaust?????
To the OP , I do not think you will notice any take off torque difference with a 3" exhaust.
Posted by: Afterburner  Replied on: 26 Aug 2016
Well i stand admonished.the reason i asked the pertinent question was i have come across a few people who chipped ,upscaled exhaust systems and fell into the trap of,whoo hoo,lots of grunt ,lots of power,must mean i can carry more payload ,hence bent chassis.caveat emptor.ask a pertinent question ,get a pertinent reply.all i stated was the obvious....sorry rebs if i upset your apple cart...
Towing the starcraftPosted by: Rebs  Replied on: 26 Aug 2016
Hey Afterburner, you have not upset my apple cart at all, so rest easy.
If you really think a 3"exhaust ( and a performance chip for that matter) is going to cause all the mayhem you have suggested then you are somewhat mistaken I feel. You will probably find it is a combination of things like too much weight behind the rear axle, a heavy van or camper on the towbar and a driver who does not drive to the (off road) conditions.
You might also find a few unmodified utes bent as well.
IMO, rating the current crop of lightweight chassis utes & dual cabs as 3.5tonne towing capacity is about sales moreso than the vehicle being able sustain the punishment some owners/drivers will dish out.
More power does not equate to bent utes, it's the nut behind the wheel that bends them.
Posted by: Afterburner  Replied on: 27 Aug 2016
Thats what my intention was to say in the first place without prejudice..:0)
Posted by: Davidhew01  Replied on: 27 Aug 2016
Is it the last of the MN 2.5's or the new 2.4? Manual or auto? I would be wary of any permanent mods that would effect what is a class leading warranty
upgrading PRADO to two the Jayco Silverline?Posted by: Outback777  Replied on: 27 Aug 2016
I've found out that a place in NEWCASTLE has the only Australian certificate to change the shockers I think, or whatever they do, to enable the 150GL Prado to tow up to 3000 instead of just 2500...has anyone done this successfully? any feedback will be much appreciated as we'll looking to buy in next few weeks.
Towing the starcraftPosted by: Rebs  Replied on: 27 Aug 2016
Davidhew01. There have been bent chassis in all the big three brands. Its not vehicle specific.
Outback777. I reckon you want to research that a bit more and perhaps with your relevent licensing authority. It will be a bit more than change the shockers, that's for sure. Check with your insurance company too.
Sterling back home! Posted by: Sandrotagg 26 Aug 2016 0 Replies
We are back home after 3 months, 7500km trip north with our 2009 Sterling 23.72-3. This was our first big trip with our recently purchased 2nd hand van.
We had no issues with the Sterling. All worked perfectly: no leaks, good water pressure, electrics, windows, hatches etc.
The fridge (Dometic) required a bit of attention to be sure it did not get too cold. We added an aftermarket remote temperature display that helped a lot. I am surprised it is not a standard feature! Run mostly on 240v set on 2~3 and 12v when towing. The manual switch-over is a bit of a pain to remember. The new added ESC always showed the green light, and hopefully helped along the way. The Tow-Pro Elite was good and easy to use. On to the next adventure. Thanks!
Jayco 2012 Sterling 23ft Expanda Caravan Posted by: plo1954 25 Aug 2016 2 Replies
We are wanting to instal solar panels on the roof & were wanting to know if this year van would be pre-wired for the panels. We have asked a Jayco service department and a major caravan yard that sell new Jayco caravans, but neither can confirm if it is.
Thanking you in advance
2012 SterlingPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 25 Aug 2016
I don't know what a Sterling 23' Expanda is, but we had a 2012 23' Sterling with bed slideout.
In 2012 the solar was not standard inclusion but an optional extra so it's unlikely to be "pre-wired" without panels unless the Jayco Caravan Order Form sheet included for "pre-wiring only" on it.
I would think if it was "pre-wired" for solar there would be a weatherproof junction box (80x80) on the roof containing the wires. There would also be a spare wire near the battery.
Jayco Customer Service at Dandenong should be able to supply the Caravan Order Form and Plan for your Chassis Number which will have everything that the factory put in your van. People that order a factory build van, as opposed to dealer floor stock or second hand, always sign off on the Caravan Order Form and Plan prior to manufacture commencing.
pre wiredPosted by: Duck  Replied on: 25 Aug 2016
Gday our previous 2010 stirling with slideout did not have solar panels but had the box on the roof and wiring sitting alongside the battery as Nomad 246 descibed
Jayco swan 1988 towed by 2000 hilux diesel Posted by: Cisar 24 Aug 2016 1 Replies

My husband is keen to buy a 1988 Jayco swan I have a few concerns the 2000 hilux diesel (4 cylinder) will struggle to tow a fully packed swan. Has anyone had experience with this model of car and campervan?
TOWINGPosted by: Don PL 5920  Replied on: 25 Aug 2016
I drive a non-turbo Landcruiser and pull a big caravan. I have to work hard to keep up when I have big trucks come up behind me ( I also talk to them on Ch 40 and let them know what I am doing and let them slip around as soon as convenient).
You do not say where you are, but if you want to keep up with the traffic on the highway, the Hilux Diesel won't do it. If you are willing to use the main highways as little as possible, take your time and enjoy the secondary roads, the Hilux will go for-ever.
I would buy the Swan, try it out, and if it is not for you, you will have real experience of which way to jump next. (I have had Hilux utes for years and reckon they are the toughest you can buy.)
Are Jayco Conquest Pre Wire For Solar Posted by: TPK60 22 Aug 2016 0 Replies
Hi i have just brought a 2009 Jayco Conquest Motorhome (Fiat Ducato) and im looking at putting a 200 Watt Solar Panel on i have been told that they are pre wired for solar can anyone verify and could you also tell me where i can find the location for both Roof wiring and inside end wiring
New Dometic CARAD door vent Posted by: Sandrotagg 22 Aug 2016 2 Replies
I was looking at a Silverline with the new very nice Dometic CARAD door and I could not see any kind of vent at the bottom part. We have a 2009 Sterling with the Camec door that has a very large vent in the lower part. I was told that it is a requirement for gas safety. Are the new vans using a different safety system? I would love to close the vent on cold and windy nights!
Still VentedPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 22 Aug 2016
I didn't know what a Carad Door was, but seems I have one on our Silverline.

You are correct, there is no vent when the glass panel of the door is closed. When the glass panel is open it's vented top and bottom.

The gas venting is now on the foot step opposite the door (to under the van) and is not as the Sterling was vented to the outside of the van.

To reduce breezes from the Sterling door vent, try thin foam or carpet between the flyscreen and door. Take it out when you have the gas bottle on though ;-) ,, for gas safety reasons
VENTPosted by: Axe  Replied on: 22 Aug 2016
Never block your vent, its there for your safety and its illegal to block it in any way.
Journey roof problem Posted by: RR4WD 11 Jul 2016 11 Replies
Picked up our new 17.55.9 Journey four weeks ago and are now 2 weeks into our trip. As this is our 5th Jayco, we know how the pop top works, but this one is not working! It opens ok, but on closing it is very hard, almost impossible to pull down, going to one side, is lopsided and then the clips on the right hand side are so out of line it cannot be clipped on, then as it is going down unevenly, the vinyl folds out instead of in! Have tried pulling it down with two people, with one person, both ends together,mone end at a time. There appears to either be a design fault or the struts are have too much pressure or incorrectly placed. Spoke to another Journey owner who picked his van up the same week, and he is having the same problem. Has anyone got any suggestions of what we can do until we can get to a Jayco service centre as it is getting worse each day. Thanks.
JOURNEY ROOF PROBLEMPosted by: Tsvvegas  Replied on: 11 Jul 2016
Hi RR4WD, our Journey is an earlier model (2015) but on our delivery show thru the chap told us to ALWAYS (with roof hatch & door open) lift the rear lift first and then the front. Reverse for lowering. Said it might go out of alignment by lifting from the front first (which means it will). So far so good with this advice. Unfortunately this model has been plagued with problems since its first release in 2014. Already 3 different designs in in 18 months.
Posted by: Greyone  Replied on: 11 Jul 2016
RR4WD no problem with our roof on 2015 Journey. However we were told to lower rear end first!!!
Tsvvegas what are the 3 different designs ???
DESIGN CHANGES TO 17.55-8Posted by: Tsvvegas  Replied on: 11 Jul 2016
Hey Greyone, the changes to the 2014 model include direction of dinette changed, hatch moved from over bed to rear of van,full curtains,lowered external speakers, TV bracket & 12v socket moved to added kitchen side panel (had been next to kitchen sink), new kitchen window where bracket had been. 2016 model new exterior decals and two tone panels, new cabinetry design (full length over sink cupboard), decor changed (flexi reading lights, pin &pocket board widened) external wheel arch trim etc. Should have asked RR4WD if their A/C roof mounted on their Journey model.
Journey RoofPosted by: RR4WD  Replied on: 11 Jul 2016
Thanks for your suggestions, but we always open the rear first , then the front, then when closing it is always the front first, then the rear The aircon is roof mounted. We rang Jayco this morning regarding the problem, and an authorised Jayco repairer is coming out to the caravan park at 8.30 in the morning. He recently had this same problem on another Journey. Another fault today to add to our list is the rear outside wall has started to ripple as if it's not glued on! Will let you know how we go.
Rear Outside Wall - black wall edgesPosted by: Davidjeng  Replied on: 12 Jul 2016
I had a problem with the rear outside wall - black corner edges. They were coming unstuck from the wall because the sealant will not stick to 2 shiny surfaces. I counter sunk stainless steel screws into the black corner covers to the wall and resealed all the edges and glued little plastic black screw covers over the screw heads. This fixed the problem.
Journey roof problemsPosted by: Djfjcj666  Replied on: 14 Jul 2016
Hi RR4WD as with any gas struts the shaft needs a light lube ( wd40 on a rag) as the seal dries out and grabs making the roof hard to pull down regards
Journey roof updatePosted by: RR4WD  Replied on: 31 Jul 2016
An update on our Journey roof that may help others in the same situation.......the reason why it is so hard to get down and going unevenly is that the incorrect struts were fitted in the factory. They are meant to be 330nm, but our van, and others were fitted with 630nm struts which are the bed lifting struts. Our specs from Jayco say we have 330nm fitted, but in actual fact the struts say 630nm, then due to the extra pressure, the easy lift handle became bent. Are all being changed Monday morning by Jayco. Hopefully the rest of our trip on pack up days will be easier!
JOURNEY ROOF PROBLEMPosted by: CoreyCruiser  Replied on: 15 Aug 2016
We just had our 2015 Jayco Journey Outback Poptop repaired under warranty. It was not pulling down square. We suggested to the repairer that the pull down handles at the rear were 10mm off line. They checked it, and said yes, and that they had done a few of our model, that Jayco's pattern is 10mm out. It is fixed, redrilled, moved, replugged and an almost invisible repair. Happy bunnies are we.
Journey Roof problem Posted by: RR4WD  Replied on: 20 Aug 2016
Jayco have now moved our easy lift arm at the rear over by 10mm by redrilling and repositioning the arm. Comes down square now and can be latched on. Makes life a lot easier when packing up!
Journey Roof ProblemPosted by: [email protected]  Replied on: 21 Aug 2016
We purchased new Journey in August 2015 and only noticed roof problem when we headed to NSW & Qld in July 2016. Exactly as described by RR4WD. A mate who bought one at the same time had his roof collapse. Apparently struts in wrong location!
I have reported to Jayco but as we are travelling it will be out of warranty by the time we return - hopefully they will still cover.
JOURNEY ROOF PROBLEMPosted by: Ritchie53  Replied on: 22 Aug 2016
Jayco service staff here in Brisbane (Camperland) are always more than helpful to repair even if slightly out of warranty. At the very least if you notify your dealer the problem within the warranty period it will be covered even when repairs are effected out of period. Our 2014 Journey pop top by the way has had very little issues. Also - when are caravan manufacturers going to match car manufacturers and offer 3 year warranty periods as standard??