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Under Slinging and Ball weight Posted by: Capeaviation 21 Feb 2018 NEW! 8 Replies
We have a 2013 Jayco Sterling 24.75-2. The one with the club lounge at the front and Slide-out on the RH rear.
The draw bar is150mm high and the whole van is very low to the ground. It has 15" wheels with 196/65R15 LT tyres fitted.
Without the jockey wheel attached the draw bar sits on the ground and we had several instances where we could not get the jockey wheel on to get the van off the tug and level the van onsite and had to resort to the jack first.
We had the van professionally under-slung (moved axles to below the springs as there seems to be some confusion as to what under-slinging means) which gave us an additional 100mm clearance. We have a height adjustable hitch so getting the van level with the tug is not usually problem or so I thought.
Before the under slinging I leveled the van with the jockey wheel and then adjusted the hitch so the hitch and ball were approx the same height. With the van then hitched up the tow vehicle (2015 RG Colorado) and van were perfectly level.
Adopting the same procedure post under-slinging the van drags the rear for the vehicle down considerably when hitched up. The Tow vehicle is still slightly high at the rear as it was previously but the van is nose down. It does however tow better than previously in this configuration.
However I cannot get a configuration that has the van and vehicle level. If I raise the hitch this only serves to make the front of the tow vehicle level and the van still nose down.
Question- Can under-slinging increase the ball weight. Should the front springs be turned around so that where the axles are attached is shorter at the front rather than to the rear perhaps.
Question- Should leveling be achieved but moving water tanks to the rear of the axles or weight to the rear of the van but will this make the tow ball weight too light.
Any comments please
Posted by: John1940  Replied on: 21 Feb 2018
Hi Capeaviation, I don't understand your concern, when hitched, the front of the van should be slightly nose down, and as you have correctly observed, it tows better in this configuration.
Your truck permits a pin weight of up to 350kg, don't exceed this limit.
Moving the c of g aft, will increase evidence of instability as the pin weight decreases.
Hope this helps.
Posted by: The whale  Replied on: 22 Feb 2018
you'll find with nearly all vans that the draw bar will sit on the ground without a jockey wheel. you dont mention the use of a WDH, what does the vehicle manual recommend? if used this will eliminate your problem of "drags the rear for the vehicle down considerably when hitched up"
you should get the van and tug on level ground and the towball on the tug should be about 50mm lower than the van hitch, and the when hitched up van and tug should be level or within around 5-10mm difference, have a look at this video it may help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7731SkSgEqE
you may need to readjust your tug hitch as per this
https://www.goseeaustralia.com.au/news/463-we-should-all-be-measuring-and-setting-up-caravan-towing-heights
UnderslingingPosted by: Tsvvegas  Replied on: 23 Feb 2018
Hi Capeaviation, we had our van underslung by Jayco. You pay an extra $500 on the purchase price to the dealer and they undersling your van and add a drop down step to compensate for the height increase at the dealership. The compliance plate is fitted pre-underslinging at the factory. Our ball weight states 117kg dry weight. I measured the van dry ball weight at 168kg underslung. So yes, the ball weight increases quite a bit. My opinion is never undersling your van. Stability issues for tug and van are greatly compromised.
Under Slinging and Ball weight Posted by: Capeaviation  Replied on: 23 Feb 2018
Thanks All for your constructive comments. Have done most of what you have said but perhaps I need to find a larger flatter area to do the initial setup. I have an 800lb WDH fitted so should be able to get if level following the correct procedure.
BALL WEIGHTPosted by: Don STEVEN  Replied on: 24 Feb 2018
I would have thought a good place to start would be the actual caravan tow-ball weight. The caravan tow-ball maximum should be on the compliance plate. Moving the axles up or down should not alter the tow-ball weight to a great extent. The Colorado having a 350kg tow-ball max does not change the caravan tow-ball max.
Posted by: John1940  Replied on: 24 Feb 2018
Hi Don, Jayco don't publish a max pin weight for their vans these days, just the pin weight at tare which is measured as the van leaves the factory. Max is up to the limit of your tow vehicle.
Capeaviation, it does not matter what type of WDH you have, the max pin weight for your truck is 350kg.
CARAVAN BALL WEIGHTPosted by: Don STEVEN  Replied on: 24 Feb 2018
Hello John, We have a 25.78 Silverline and the Ball Weight Max on the caravan compliance plate is 270kgs max. Capeaviation has a 24.75 and I would expect it to be very similar. My actual (weighed) TBW is usually 275/280 loaded and with water. The compliance is the max legal, not my towbar 350kgs (Landcruiser 100) and we run with a WDH. If Capeaviations caravan ball weight is getting up to the 350kgs (which is easy to do) it would explain why the tow-vehicle is sagging under it.
We previously had a 23.72 and that TBW was on the compliance plate as well. I think you are right, Jayco's now leave the factory with the actual TBW.
Posted by: John1940  Replied on: 25 Feb 2018NEW!
Hi Don, I have a 21.65-4 OB and it doesn't have a max TBW on the compliance plate, I understand that it used to be on the plate in years gone by. I have read somewhere and I can't put my finger on it at the moment, that it was just a number calculated at 10% of the ATM and really had no other purpose, so it was discontinued.
You may be legally able to have a TBW up to the limit of your Landy 100.
Good luck investigating!
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Starcraft Posted by: Butler 23 Jan 2018 NEW! 4 Replies
Recently purchased a starcraft 19.61-2, very happy with it, but there are a couple of things which could have been done better. The studs in the door and cupboard latches need to be loctited, because they vibrate loose and fall out so you can't open the latches.
The windows keep on closing in the wind even when you have them all the way open which also makes it dangerous.
StarcraftPosted by: Hydro1  Replied on: 23 Jan 2018
Take it back to the dealer or contact Jayco direct.
Only whinge if nothing is done.
Jeff
Posted by: snibbs  Replied on: 3 Feb 2018
Hi Butler, i just purchased one the same a week ago, thanks for the info, might loctite them before mu first trip.
Window StrutsPosted by: Stableview  Replied on: 20 Feb 2018
I contacted Jayco re the window struts and was told to return to dealer for repair / replace. They replaced two with the same struts. Next to useless on the large front window as you say. These are the struts being used on all Jaycos at the moment apparently. God know why. Anyway, only way to fix is retro fit with the old style if you can find them or Coast to Coast do have struts. At the moment I am using a small bull dog clip on the struts at the desired window opening. Sad fix for a brand new van.
Handle studsPosted by: Blackers1  Replied on: 25 Feb 2018NEW!
Be careful using Loctite on the handle studs. If your van has the metal handles, then no problem. If you have the plastic handles, make sure the loctite you use is for plastic otherwise it will dissolve the threaded section and your handles will be useless.
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Battery Switch Posted by: heatpat 24 Feb 2018 0 Replies
What is the unmarked switch next to battery switch in 2017 Expanda Pop Top please?
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sun power Posted by: Robertpat 23 Feb 2018 1 Replies
Getting a 120 panel on roof to keep 2 batteries going have 12 volt fridge on board ,off road at night travel next day will it cope
SolarPosted by: Killtrassy  Replied on: 24 Feb 2018
I presume you are referring to a solar panel on a vehicle to charge a battery for a Waeco / Engel type fridge. You will only need one battery just to run a fridge for a night. I have an auxillary battery in the engine bay charged by the alternator and it will run a fridge for a night easy.
Cheers Tony
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Interchangeable wheels Posted by: Capeaviation 20 Feb 2018 6 Replies
We have a 2013 Jayco Sterling 24.75-2 with slideout. This is very much a black top van and we wanted to do more than that so we did a couple of things.
Firstly, the van was way to low for practical semi offroad use so we under-slung the axles to below the springs to give us about 100mm. Then I was interested in making the wheels on the tow vehicle and the van interchangeable. Problem- The van has 15" Jayco alloy rims running 195/65R15 LT tyres (27.5" dia). Our tow vehicle, a 2015 RG Colorado Auto with 17" alloy rims running 255/65R17 tyres (30" dia). Fortunately both rims have the same 6 stud pattern and very close in offset.
So for those interested we put 255/75R15 tyres (30.1x10R15) on the van which give us the option of swapping the wheels between the van and tow vehicle as they are all the same width, dia and rolling circumference. It also gave us 2 spares at no extra cost and also raised the van an additional 2" approx.
Cheers
Ian
Happy traveling
Interchangeable wheelsPosted by: Rebs  Replied on: 20 Feb 2018
Capeaviation, Have you actually fitted (read: tightened up) the Jayco wheels to both the front and rear positions on your tug? I would be concerned that the 15" jayco wheels actually fit over the front brake calipers and suspension components as well as the brake drum on the rear.
I hope you have as you would not be the first to come unstuck on this
Interchangeable wheelsPosted by: Rebs  Replied on: 20 Feb 2018
Capeaviation, Have you actually fitted (read: tightened up) the Jayco wheels to both the front and rear positions on your tug? I would be concerned that the 15" jayco wheels actually fit over the front brake calipers and suspension components as well as the brake drum on the rear.
I hope you have as you would not be the first to come unstuck on this.
Interchangeable wheelsPosted by: Rebs  Replied on: 20 Feb 2018
Capeaviation, Have you actually fitted (read: tightened up) the Jayco wheels to both the front and rear positions on your tug? I would be concerned that the 15" jayco wheels actually fit over the front brake calipers and suspension components as well as the brake drum on the rear.
I hope you have as you would not be the first to come unstuck on this.
Interchangeable wheelsPosted by: Capeaviation  Replied on: 21 Feb 2018
Thanks Rebs, good point, have not actually done that. The Colorado rear brakes are 12" drums and the vans are 10" so I might have a problem with the 15" Jayco wheels on the tug front and rear. The Colorado comes standard with 16" so I might have to go with Jayco 16x7J rims or equivalent and a 255 lower profile tyre. It's only money after all! Cheers
Interchangeable WheelsPosted by: GeoffS12  Replied on: 21 Feb 2018
Capeaviation another issue to consider is the load rating of the caravan rims. I have looked at the wheels on my 2011 Sterling, which I would guess are similar or the same15" rims, and they are listed on, I think, the Coast to Coast website as not suitable for use on motor vehicles only caravans or trailers.
Interchangeable wheelsPosted by: Wombo  Replied on: 24 Feb 2018
Also check and physically test the other way around , Colorado wheels on the Jayco !
Wheels also have another important characteristic variable called "offset" and the Jayco wheel offset is largely negative. Unless the offset is close it can cause serious problems or not fit at all.
As an example my Hilux wheels have the same stud pattern but have 30mm positive offset and when moved to the Jayco the tyre sidewalls foul hard against the Jayco subframe long before the nuts are seated.
And if you happen to be lucky here you will then also need to sort out the wheel nuts which come in many seat styles, threads and depths. Even if they look the same you could be torqueing down the nuts to the studs only with the wheels loose or close to it...
Be very careful and if you don't understand any of this google to learn the concepts then once you have a grasp and can discuss knowingly then go and get professional advice.
No it's not just money, it's potentially someone else's life when you loose a wheel....
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Brackets on Jayco 24.75-2 Posted by: Capeaviation 23 Feb 2018 0 Replies
Can anyone advise me as to the purpose of the brackets shown in the attached photos.
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Silverline 21.6 Outback Posted by: Robertpat 23 Feb 2018 1 Replies
Well we have done it went to Geelong looked at SilverLine .Went to Show Wed and yes ordered one pick up late April .Had caravans all my life last 2 Jayco, trading in Stirling 20.6 had 12 years love our update ,congratulations Jayco ,and as for our tradein and change over price very satisfied .My question too you all with all vans there are little problems anyone with advice on the matter i'm all ears.next trip Perth and yes I will be giving it a very good pre trip test. Love this site Robert
Silverline 21.6 OutbackPosted by: Capeaviation  Replied on: 23 Feb 2018
Hi Robert,
Many years ago we had a 20' 2006 Sterling years ago and took it everywhere. It had big wheels and Muddy A/T 30" tyres on it and never gave us any trouble. They were really well built in those days. I hope the Silverline gives you the same if not more years of wonderful trouble free enjoyment.
Cheers
Ian
Capeaviation
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Silverline Annex Rafters Posted by: jimbo66 21 Feb 2018 1 Replies
I have a Silverlin 21.63 and I am wondering which are the most suitable Roof Rafters particularely slight or acute angle
Posted by: The whale  Replied on: 21 Feb 2018
We have a 21.65.3 with an annex by Australia wide annexes and the rafters and anti flap kit is the best we have had from 3 other vans/annexes

https://www.australiawideannexes.com.au/
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Starcraft Outback 2013 blinker LEDs failing Posted by: ozpm 20 Feb 2018 1 Replies
More than half of the LEDs in my rear left LED turn sgnal have failed. Try as I have I haven't been able to locate a supplier of a replacement - 13cm diameter, amber, 13 individual LEDs in the lens. Any suggestions?
Posted by: Axe  Replied on: 21 Feb 2018
Contact Jayco in Melbourne. Give them your Chassis number and they will help you out
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duel battery problem Posted by: Twojays1512 7 Feb 2018 7 Replies
I have aduel cab mazda with large agm battery and 20amp red arc dc/dc charger fitted.We have a40 lt waeco connected in the rear tub.Our problem is when we connect the caravan via the Anderson plug turn the fridge to DC (dometic2 door model RM46010) when driving within 2hrs the agm battery has flattened. disconnect the van and the battery is fully charged after driving short time.I don't know whether the the fridge draws more than the charger can produce or what?any advice would be much appreciated.
ps battery110amp AGM and dc charger are brand new
Posted by: Me123  Replied on: 7 Feb 2018
The BCDC charger needs to be as close as possible (1m max from memory or larger mm2 cable needed) to the battery it is charging. Wheres the auxiliary battery?
Dual Battery Charge RatePosted by: GeoffS12  Replied on: 7 Feb 2018
Hi Twojays. A quick look at the fridge specs shows that on 12v it draws 215 watts. Thats near enough to 18 amps. The Waeco will probably draw at least 3 amps if not more. Thats now minimum 21 amps draw. Now add in voltage drop as Me123 is referring to then a 20 amp DC/DC charger will not be putting out enough to keep the battery full. Result flat battery. Cable size may also not help. minimum in these types of situations is 6 B&S or 50 amp.
Hope this helps
Posted by: Redmick  Replied on: 7 Feb 2018
Very similar problem we had on our maiden trip. What was also pointed out when discussed with Redarc was to mount the BCDC in front of the radiator to keep it cool because as it heats up its charging capacity reduces and can when getting too hot will stop completely. I have yet to move mine but I am going to. They also suggested to get rid of the blade fuses before the holders became a problem and replace them with MIDI bolt in fuses.
WhyPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 8 Feb 2018
Hi Twojays,
Why is the van fridge connected to the same as you rear tub fridge?
Should be separate.
What you appear to have is an inadequate wiring size set up to the rear tub, with the van fridge hooked on behind that causes a failure. The van fridge will suck all the power (flatten the battery) before the battery charges.
Cheers
Posted by: Mundy  Replied on: 10 Feb 2018
HI Twojays,
Nomad246 is correct. You should connect the anderson plug to your main battery via an ignition controlled relay and use a 6B&S cable. The alternator has plenty of amp capacity to provide for your van fridge and the relay will ensure you don't flatten your main battery when the vehicle isn't running.
As far as moving your DCDC controller goes, as noted by Me123, it should be mounted as close to the agm battery as possible. If the agm is under the bonnet, you will need to think about heat too.
Running fridge while drivingPosted by: Capeaviation  Replied on: 20 Feb 2018
My understanding is that the standard practice is to run the fridge whilst traveling through the 12 pin plug. It is then driven by the alternator system and therefore cannot drain the cranking battery or the aux. The DC-DC charger is then free to charge the Aux battery and adequately power the waeco.
Running fridge while drivingPosted by: Rebs  Replied on: 20 Feb 2018
Capeaviation, your understanding is correct. Absorption fridges were never intended to be battery operated.
Mundy, While I agree with your post above I suggest forgoing the ignition controlled relay and instead fit a FridgeSwitch in the caravan directly behind the fridge. It serves the same purpose. Once you buy one it is portable if you change vans and you do not need to go to an auto eleco and get the relay job done each time you change tugs. I bought one in 2007 and have had no further expense when changing vans and tugs. No affiliation with the FridgeSwitch.
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Jayco lark Posted by: Rangietragic 13 Feb 2018 2 Replies
Have just bought a 1987 lark, who else has one?
Posted by: amanda1  Replied on: 17 Feb 2018
beautiful
Our first Jayco was an 87 larkPosted by: IanPendergrast  Replied on: 19 Feb 2018
Our first Jayco was an 87 lark which had red and orange stripes. Great camper trailer.
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Blue Mts Posted by: Rob2007 11 Feb 2018 2 Replies
Hi all we plan to be in the Blue Mts in April, are there any free camp sites or good c/parks in the area.
Safe travels
Regards Rob
Posted by: Ao767  Replied on: 11 Feb 2018
Katoomba falls caravan park always gets a good writeup for location, there is the Katoomba christian convention centre a bit further down for a low cost option. Lake Lyall is great but out past Lithgow and best free camp in the area is Lake Wallace at Wallerawang.
Blue MountainsPosted by: Bob  Replied on: 18 Feb 2018
Another good caravan park is located at Blackheath , Blackheath Glen Tourist Park Ph 0247878101
Great spot for April, we are booked in for a week during April.