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12 volt fans now running in reverse Posted by: Juddy06 30 May 2017 NEW! 3 Replies
hi all, I previously owned a 2009 jayco pop top which ran the 12V fans that you can pick up from Jayco. I have just purchased a 2012 pop top and went to plug the same 12 volt fans into the lights and they are now running in reverse -sucking air not blowing air. The only difference from the old caravan is it had a dual battery set up. But even when running on AC the fans in the new van sucks air in. Has anyone had this problem before - I have already spoken to a couple of sparkies with no luck on why this is happening
fansPosted by: Graham2009  Replied on: 30 May 2017NEW!
Had the same problem wires need to be reversd behind light
12 VOLT FANS NOW RUNNING IN REVERSE Posted by: Juddy06  Replied on: 30 May 2017NEW!
that was a simple fix - worked a treat thanks
FansPosted by: Graham2009  Replied on: 30 May 2017NEW!
no problem
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12 volt fans now running in reverse Posted by: Juddy06 30 May 2017 NEW! 0 Replies
hi all, I previously owned a 2009 jayco pop top which ran the 12V fans that you can pick up from Jayco. I have just purchased a 2012 pop top and went to plug the same 12 volt fans into the lights and they are now running in reverse -sucking air not blowing air. The only difference from the old caravan is it had a dual battery set up. But even when running on AC the fans in the new van sucks air in. Has anyone had this problem before - I have already spoken to a couple of sparkies with no luck on why this is happening
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Anderson Plug Purpose ? Posted by: MarkChap 29 May 2017 NEW! 4 Replies
G'day everyone, I have recently purchased a 2008 21.65-7 Sterling
I have an Anderson plug at the front that is connected to a white and black cable, I am guessing the white is actually the earth, This cable runs in the same insulation that contains the indicator/stop/tail/power feed for the breakaway battery
For the life of me I can not track down what this cable is/was for. I have tried a multi-meter and cannot get any voltage at the plug, neither does there seem to be circuit on the earth/white wire or the black wire for that matter.
I do have a second anderson plug that has a very substantial cable that runs direct to the fridge and is obviously an aftermarket install
Does anyone have any ideas ?
Anderson Plug question.Posted by: Jaycotoy  Replied on: 29 May 2017
It appears you have two Anderson plugs, is that the case? What kind of fridge do you have, 3 way or compressor?
I have a compressor fridge that is connected directly across the caravan battery via an in line fuse. A 3 way fridge may be differently configured.
I also have an Anderson plug that is connected directly to my battery via a diode that is forward biased to allow current flow only from the car battery/alternator towards the caravan battery. The diode would prevent a multimeter from seeing any voltage at the plug if disconnected from the car. Bob.
Posted by: Gwb  Replied on: 30 May 2017NEW!
Do you have ESC fitted as in my case I have a separate Anderson plug for that.
Geoff and Bev
Posted by: The whale  Replied on: 30 May 2017NEW!
as you have 2 anderson plugs and already ascertained 1 is for the fridge this 1 is more than likely as a circuit to charge the batteries, can you check with the previous owner
Posted by: MarkChap  Replied on: 30 May 2017NEW!
Jaycotoy, - Fridge is the standard 182 lt Dometic 3 way , the cable that now runs to this is definitely after market
The Whale - There is no power from the said Black and White Anderson plug at the battery, I have disconnected the van battery and tested the feed to the van battery, with power connected to the anderson plug in question. The van battery seems to charge from pin 2 on the trailer plug, when power is connected to that pin, there is then power to the battery.

I think that it may have been the original fridge feed, although I cannot see any stray wires in behind the fridge.
I will see if I can track down the previous owners details
Thank you for the ideas
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SHOWER PAN CREAKING Posted by: Dreamcruiser 28 May 2017 7 Replies
We own a 2014 25ft Silverline Outback and love it, however our shower pan creaks a lot when we use the shower. I am worried it might crack or break. Is this normal or should we get a repairer to look at it?
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 29 May 2017
Just upgraded from a 2014 Silverline to a Motorhome. The shower in the Silverline always creaked but I had no problems with it.
Posted by: Gwb  Replied on: 29 May 2017
Our 2011 Sterling shower base creaks a bit but we have had no dramas with it.
SHOWER PAN CREAKINGPosted by: Dreamcruiser  Replied on: 29 May 2017
Thanks for the feedback. I will stop worrying now.
SHOWER PAN CREAKINGPosted by: Dreamcruiser  Replied on: 29 May 2017
Thanks for the feedback. I will stop worrying now.
SHOWER PAN CREAKINGPosted by: Dreamcruiser  Replied on: 29 May 2017
Thanks for the feedback. I will stop worrying now.
SHOWER PAN CREAKINGPosted by: Dreamcruiser  Replied on: 29 May 2017
Thanks for the feedback. I will stop worrying now.
Creaking shower basePosted by: Jaycotoy  Replied on: 29 May 2017
We love our Silverline too but not the creaking shower base. I just hope the creaking doesn't become cracking. Bob.
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Caravan Scissor Jack Posted by: Thunderchild 23 May 2017 5 Replies
I have a 2014 Silverline and had to change a tyre when the van was unloaded. No way would the supplied scissor jack lift the van. Has anyone else had the same problem?
Posted by: Gwb  Replied on: 23 May 2017
Last year we had a flat tyre at just past Nundroo Roadhouse and changed it with the Jayco supplied scissor jack. Our van a Sterling 23.72-1 was fully loaded as we were enroute to WA. The tyre was successfully repaired at Nundroo Roadhouse. Your Silverline may be a little heavier than our Sterling but not by much.
Geoff and Bev
Posted by: Thunderchild  Replied on: 23 May 2017
Hi Geoff
Ours is only a 21 footer but i'm thinking it may be the J-Tec suspension and the position of the jacking point. There appears to be too much travel in the suspension for the wheel to get off the ground before you run out of travel with the scissor jack.
Daryl
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 23 May 2017
I leave the Jayco and Mitzy jack at home. I bought one of these 12V jacks and Rattle gun. Seriously this is a great piece of kit. It comes with height extenders and It works well. No more stuffing around with wheel braces trying to undo wheel nuts. Like my premium roadside assistance I never leave home without this; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-5-Ton-12V-Electric-Scissor-Car-Jack-Lift-with-1-2-Impact-Wrench-Automotive-/142237071012?hash=item211dfd76a4:g:9hsAAOSw5cNYcKsX
Posted by: Gwb   Replied on: 24 May 2017
A very valid point Daryl. I will take that into consideration when we update our van in a year or two.
Geoff and Bev
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 29 May 2017
Contact Jayco. I believe that was a problem with the early Silverlines and they changed the jack and were replacing the old ones.
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Manual Posted by: sgbaker 25 May 2017 3 Replies
Does any know if you can download a manual for a 2007 Jayco Desiny Poptop
Posted by: The whale  Replied on: 26 May 2017
have you tried ringing Jayco HQ 1800331601
Posted by: GeoffS12  Replied on: 27 May 2017
I bought my 2011 Sterling second hand. If the Jayco manual for it is anything to go by I wouldnt bother. The full owner package that came with my van had all of the manufacturers manuals for all of the bits Jayco installed. These will be of much more help to you and can often be obtained online from the manufacturers website.
The Jayco owners manual I have is very general and covers a multitude of models so in my opinion was hardly worth the effort.
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 28 May 2017
Yes my manual cane on a DVD which is really handy if you have something to play it with...
Far better to google each thing you are after and download the "component" user manuals on line... Then to make it all look professional get a blue folder with plastic sleeves in it and put all the "components of your manual into it....
Then in Gold Felt tip pen write of the cover Jayco model XXXXX ver X.X User manual....
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Fitting Gas Bayonet to Starcraft 20.62 Posted by: Terry 2558 18 May 2017 7 Replies
Hello can anybody please tell me how much approximately I would expect to pay for a plumber to fit a bayonet to the outside of the van for use with a portable gas stove? Thanks
gas bayonetPosted by: Bushy1961  Replied on: 19 May 2017
Terry
Iam just getting another one fitted to my Silverline down the back and costing $%440.00 in WA from Care a van.
Posted by: Terry 2558  Replied on: 19 May 2017
Thank you very much Bushy

Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 22 May 2017
I fitted my own. Yes I know you are supposed to be a licenced gas fitter but the only time the gas certificate is used is to ensure the van pases the ADR's at the timer of manufacture. Its not hard to do but you need to be sensible and ensure there are no leaks. You can buy DIY kits.... You will need to buy the copper tube and a flaring tool ( $30) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gas-Bayonet-DIY-KIT-BBQ-quick-connect-Floor-socket-camper-caravan-motorhome-/112083918170?hash=item1a18b8dd5a:g:SHoAAOSwhOdXpRpb

Don't risk your insurancePosted by: Gunnago  Replied on: 23 May 2017
Dear Hyacinths husband
If you wish to snub your nose at the law go right ahead. But do not advise other consumers to do the same. In Victoria & in some of the other states you are required to get a Certificate Of Compliance from the plumber. This is the Law. It is for your safety & others. If your caravan was to have a fire say, and your insurance company asked you for your COC & you don't have one for your gas bayonet install. Then kiss your insurance claim goodbye. I know because Ive been part of such an insurance claim. And not as the owner or installer. DIY is fine for anything thats not required to have an authorized person to carry out the work. Plumber or Electrician. So just don't risk it Terry2558 or anyone else.
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 23 May 2017
So your saying you cant do your own plumbing on your van either?
The paperwork is actually a Certificate of gas compliance and thats Australia wide. So when a caravan workshop installs a gas fitting they have to use a licenced gasfitter and not a plumber? Well I'll tell you that doesn't happen as I've been involved with caravan repair and renovation for 32 years.
The original gas compliance certificate expires 6 years after issue so therefore all caravans over 6 years old do not have a current gas compliance certificate and are therefore illegal? Cite the legislation that requires renewal of Gas certificates please.
Can you cite the claim you were involved in?
There are easier ways to kiss your claim good bye...
Posted by: Terry 2558  Replied on: 24 May 2017
Thanks everybody, appreciate your replies. I am getting the bayonet fitted in addition to other gas related work, all by a registered gas fitter who will be providing a certificate. Terry2558

Gas BayonettePosted by: Brumbles  Replied on: 25 May 2017
Hi Terry good idea to have the work done by a professional and ensure you get a certificate for the work. If you decide to change your van it is always good to have certificates for any work /alterations done
Brumbles
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Extended "A" Frame: 19.6.2 OUTBACK Posted by: Rod Mac 5 May 2017 5 Replies
I would love your views on the following. We've all but decided on the above Starcraft (OUTBACK version) and we're going through the options regarding accessories to order. It was suggested to me that if we were to have a stone guard installed, we might like to consider an extended A Frame.
So my questions are: Is a stone guard a "must-have" if we plan to travel the gravel roads, and if so, is the extended A Frame a necessity?? Also what impact on the tow-ball weight would you estimate this to have? Thanks for your thoughts.
Extended "A" Frame.Posted by: Gismauau  Replied on: 5 May 2017
I have a Journey 17'55 & had a extended A frame fitted, & have also fitted a standard stone guard, I have only found positives with the extension compared to my last van, you will appreciate the extra room between the tug & van. I am not sure about the ball weight diff, I don't think the ball weight changed when I ordered the ext, a frame, best ask Jayco.
Extended A framePosted by: Wallyspike  Replied on: 5 May 2017
Rod, if you are going off the bitumen at all, I would strongly recommend a stone guard plus protection of any exposed plastic bits underneath. We have a Journey 16.52 OB with a standard A frame and managed to fit a stone guard quite well, even though there was a little fiddling moving the hose tray back. However, the jerry can holder had to go. Just watch it with a stone guard on a standard A frame as if you may hit the tail lights on your vehicle at full lock.
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 6 May 2017
Have a stone guard on my Silverline Outback and DO NOT have an extended a-frame. I should have though as I have a very expensive broken tail light and a ding on the back where it has hit a few times even though I am aware of it.
Stine guardPosted by: Afterburner  Replied on: 6 May 2017
We have a stirling o/b.with extended draw bar.good for manouvering etc.have a stone guard and used it once.too many bounce backs from stones off road.i now use a corflute screen on rear screen attached with velcro.no chips what so ever on duco.horses for courses.
Stone GuardPosted by: DavidF  Replied on: 25 May 2017
2 Jayco camper trailers and for the last 3 years a StarCraft 19' Outback.
All fitted with the same stoneguard. I have had to replace the mesh a number of times, and also repainted it.
All this due to stone damage.
Every mark on the stoneguard is one less mark on the van, I reckon maybe only a handful on marks on the 3 units. Trips have included the Birdsville Track and Central Qld. On standard draw bars.
Regards,

David
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water pressure Posted by: Rabbits2 13 May 2017 5 Replies
Do others have almost no water pressure when connected to mains water. Is there a filter or something that I have not yet found ? Any help appreciated.
Posted by: Afterburner  Replied on: 13 May 2017
Have a look under your van and you will see an in line valve.they have been prone to failure.check this site as there was a lot of hints as to how to fix the problem.also,check your stainer on yor tap as there might be junk clogging it.
Posted by: GME  Replied on: 14 May 2017
Mine was the same , located the in line reducing valve fitted with John Guest connections so it easy to remove , pulled it apart and freed up the moving valve part inside which stuck and good to go , good pressure .
Posted by: steve59  Replied on: 23 May 2017
When you pull the pressure valve apart I suggest stretching the spring by 2-3 cm. This will make the valve work much better. It will take a bit of force to do this.
Posted by: Neil7  Replied on: 23 May 2017
The spring originally would be barely 2cm long from memory, you suggest doubling the length? I found more success replacing the 350kpa valve with a 500kph, good pressure now with no problems.
Pressure limits for JG fittingsPosted by: Wallyspike  Replied on: 23 May 2017
Before replacing the 350 kpa fitting for a higher pressure one, just check the specs for John Guest fittings in your situation. Particularly for hot water. I suspect it is ok, but may be getting near the limits.
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Fixing start button on sphere washing machine Posted by: Rws 19 May 2017 1 Replies
We have had a Jayco Sterling van (2012)from new and the Sphere washing machine in it has been brilliant. It still works well but.... the start button has become unreliable. Sometimes it works straight away and other times you need to push it for 10 mins or so before machine works. My dealer says it would probably be better to get a new machine but I do recall reading a fix for this but can't re-find it. My labour isn't a problem - I just need to know what to do. Can anyone help?
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 22 May 2017
Unless you can do it yourself its an expensive exercise. The Sphere washer is a rebranded Lemair and those stupid push buttons ( under the plastic film) can get a bit of dirt under the contacts and its game over. Only way to fix it is to take the machine out of the van, unscrew the top panel so you can get access to to electronics underneath then get the circuit board out. The switch is either one of 2 types on some models its soldered to the PCB on others its a seperate switch on wires soldered to the PCB. this is where it gets tricky, either way you need to be able to solder the new one in/on after getting a replacement from Jaycar; https://www.jaycar.com.au/1-4mm-spst-micro-tactile-switch/p/SP0601
Or you could price a new PCB assembly from a Lemair agent but you would need the model and serial No's...
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Jayco change to compliance plates & weights Posted by: Bushy1961 18 May 2017 8 Replies
Please see what I have found out.
The Service notice that came out said that due to ADR’s & safety concerns the Max Jayco will allow is 475kgs for Tandem & Shower they will not issue a replacement Compliance plate with a revised ATM.
This is part of it:

Under the ADR requirements Jayco stamp and fit compliance plates to every RV prior to leaving the factory. This includes weighting the RV in the final stages of production to ensure compliance with ADR.
Jayco will not change the compliance plate at the customers request
The RV is designed, tested and built to tolerances that meet ADR standards based on current carrying capacity, increasing this capacity will put the RV outside of the design and testing conditions.
Posted by: Fatts59  Replied on: 18 May 2017
Yes if the caravan was weighed right in the first place we are way over. Cheers Trev
Posted by: The whale  Replied on: 19 May 2017
Yes if the caravan was weighed right in the first place we are way over. Cheers Trev
assume that these are your weight measurements (not Jayco weigh bridge ticket) and what do they include
dont forget that the tare measurement is WITHOUT any water, gas or any dealer fitted extras OR any thing that you have added

Bushy1961 can you add a link on were you saw this info
Posted by: Bushy1961  Replied on: 19 May 2017
I asked my caravan repairer if they could get mine upgraded to 600kg and this what came back with, so I then went to CaravanLand in Cannington and asked the question, and this was his reply from a service note sent out.
Posted by: Fatts59  Replied on: 19 May 2017
We came back from a months holiday and decided to way our outback 25-78-5 Silverline were Jayco Adelaide weigh there vans , with no water in our three tanks our weights were 3,450kgs and ball weight 410 kgs and the whole weight was 3860kgs , not happy with that outcome we emptied the whole van and took it back to weigh it again it came in at 3276kgs tare, our plate is stamped 3030kgs tare we took of 86kgs of additional weight of because of extras hot water tank pole carries gas bottles . We are still way over160 kgs . With the payload 3485 - 3276 = 209 kgs doesn't leave much to stay legal
weightsPosted by: Luckyone  Replied on: 20 May 2017
wieghtsPosted by: Luckyone  Replied on: 20 May 2017
I know where you are coming from Fats59 we have the same van same problem and no one wants to know about it just a lot of run around talk. there is a big problem with some of these vans being overweight and no help. its all just to bad so sad talk. have even been told trade it and but something legal. in the range well why sell something that's not
WEIGHTSPosted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 20 May 2017
I remember contacting Jayco just after I bought my Silverline to upgrade the ATM to give me a payload of 600kg. I bought it off the floor as a new van. At the time if you ordered a Jayco they would do it. Was told that once they leave the factory they will not change the compliance plate however if I wanted to upgrade it then talk to an engineer and get it upgraded that way. In the end I found that because we always travelled light even on long trips I didn't need to.
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 22 May 2017
My starcraft came with a very generous 500kg payload, also came with weighbridge ticket... So I weighed it with all our stuff in it and still had 98kG to spare....
The trick is that you cant exceed the combined mass of tug and van nor the ball load. If you have the back of your tug filled with stuff the load of that has to come off your ball weight.... All very complex... then if you change vehicles you have to go through it all over again....
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Airbags Posted by: Whaar 16 May 2017 8 Replies
We have a 21.64.4 Silverline and tow with a LC200. I have noticed when travelling in the dark whilst towing the van that vehicles coming in the opposite direction are flashing the lights at me as if i am on high beam. I have a HR towing system for leveling the rig but still they flash thier lights at me. Thing of changing to airbags on the back of the LC200, anyone done this? If so did this then delete the need for the HR?
Thanks
Wayne
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 16 May 2017
Suggest you park on level ground at take a few measurements. If the front of the vehicle is more than 25mm higher than the rear then you may be overweight. If you are overweight then changing to air bags would not make you legal....
AIRBAGSPosted by: Whaar  Replied on: 17 May 2017
No need to check measurements or weights as I have had these checked and I an legal with my weights
Posted by: Jaycojack  Replied on: 17 May 2017
It sounds to me that if your weights are correct then your van and tow vehicle have been badly set up.
This is easily done on level ground with a tape to measure the height from the ground to the bottom rim of the ball receiver of the level van. Next,adjust the hitch assembly so that the measurement taken from the lower base of the ball itself to the ground is equal to the van measurement. Fit your bars and pull up to 4 to 5 swinging links. Stand back and check vehicle visually then measure front and rear of vehicle and compare with figures without van.
If you still need to raise the rear of the vehicle adjust by raking the ball backwards using the adjusting plates at the side. The detailed information is on the HR site. Remember that air bags place more stress on the chassis over the axle and even LC200's have been known to bend.
Posted by: Gwb  Replied on: 17 May 2017
The other alternative is to take your vehicle to the service mechanic you use and have him check your headlight alignment.
Geoff and Bev
Posted by: The whale  Replied on: 18 May 2017
try using say 1 less link on the WDH to lift the rear of the LC
Posted by: Fatts59  Replied on: 18 May 2017
I have upgraded the coils to 350kgs and have airbags but have not used airbags all measurements are ok
Posted by: Afterburner  Replied on: 21 May 2017
We tow a 25 ft sterling o/back with a vx 200 series 2015. Have put in firestone air bags but found out i didnt need them.truck only dropped 15 mm in rear.thats with a 80l fridge plus battery in rear.front has upgraded coils ,not stiff ones to compensate for ally bar.alli use bags for is levelling vx if i carry weight to one side.have driven at night and have had no problems as you have.no wdh either.its sits straight as even when being/ overtaking trucks.
Posted by: Hyacinths husband  Replied on: 22 May 2017
There is an obvious problem here somewhere. Either the van is front heavy or the rear suspension on the tug is faulty.... Check downward deflection, again check the ball weight. Adding airbags and suspension upgrades will not make an illegal situation legal and if the van is within the legal towing weight of the vehicle then loading is the issue....
Remember in NSW the RMS does do random checks usually in blitz form and if they find you have exceeded the weights allowed by those marked on your compliance plates you could be in strife....