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older jayco flyscreen rubber Posted by: quality 31 May 2016 1 Replies
Hi Guys
we have an older Jayco (approx. 19991)
where do we get the flyscreen rubber insert to hold in the flyscreen, it has sliding aluminium windows and the channel width is approx. 8mm in width. have tried everywhere.
can anyone help us?
older jayco flyscreen rubberPosted by: Optimum  Replied on: 31 May 2016
Bunnings or Mitre 10 should stock it and sell it by the metre. While there get the little tool with the wheel on one end to insert the rubber in the groove.
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Water leak Posted by: Impulse 31 May 2016 0 Replies
Thanks. Did what you suggested and found a screw stripped in back vent . Put bigger screw in its a fix.
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How Stupid is Stupid Posted by: Optimum 27 May 2016 19 Replies
Just when you thought you have seen it all.

I went to shift the rear number plate on the motorhome and found it was sikaflexed to the fibreglass body mold.

Thanks Jayco Brisbane.
Is This a Trick Question?Posted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 27 May 2016
And your problem is :-
a/ With Sikaflex?
b/ With Number Plates?
c/ The ability to whinge on the internet quicker than fixing a stuck number plate?

Common practice with all our vans was to stick the number plate on ,,,,, don't know why and a overkill

Optimum you should thank your lucky stars that the number plate was not attached with tamper proof screws like the compliance plate is.
How Stupid is Stupid Posted by: Optimum  Replied on: 27 May 2016
Another Jayco apologist. Maybe you should offer a remedy to shift the plate without damaging it or the fibre glass.
How Stupid is Stupid Posted by: Optimum  Replied on: 27 May 2016
"Common practice with all our vans was to stick the number plate on ,,,,, don't know why and a overkill"

Quote: "Common practice with all our vans "

Sounds a lot like this is a dealers forum.


Earth to OptimumPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 27 May 2016
If you want a fix do not display such attitude,, a simple please help will get you further than your headline antics "How Stupid is Stupid"
Obviously you want to grand stand and not remedy your issue.
How Stupid is Stupid Posted by: Optimum  Replied on: 27 May 2016
Alert: Warning thought police on patrol. Nomad246 I have been around long enough to know what is a stupid practice. Maybe you would like to consider the legal ramifications of having a number plate permanently fixed to a motorhome.
Do you want to fix your problem or just WHINGEPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 27 May 2016
"legal ramifications" there is no basis for your comment
All number plates should be securely affixed to the vehicle.
A unregulated addition to the requirement has been providing avoidance to theft, tamper proof screws, glues etc.
Nothing relates to stupidity with securing a number plate legally and trying to avoid theft of the plate by means of gluing or tamper proof screws
Do you want to fix your problem or just WHINGEPosted by: Optimum  Replied on: 27 May 2016
Nomad246 thank you for your comments. But I didn't come here for the entertainment of people like you.

Good night.
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 27 May 2016
Hahahahahaha. Reading this is so funny. Makes you wonder if there is anything to screw it onto where it is.

Mind you, my Silverline came from Jayco Brisbane so going to see how mine is fixed on tomorrow. Not that I really care as long as it doesn't fall off.
Sleep tight in a fetal positionPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 27 May 2016
You have not entertained me but just annoyed me.
A stuck on rego plate is easily removed without damage and without the internet.
Your next WHINGE will be how to reposition the plate light that the idiots put in the wrong location to where I moved the plate to ,,,, lol
How Stupid is Stupid Posted by: Optimum  Replied on: 27 May 2016
Nomad246. No I won't be coming back this site for advice because of sarcastic people like you. There are a lot more friendly sites where travellers can share their views. BTW I have fixed the problem.

Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 28 May 2016
Well I do . . . . . . mine has four lovely stainless steel screws and no glue :)
how stupid is stupidPosted by: Lionelo  Replied on: 28 May 2016
Yep, probably structural. I wouldn't have removed it. Van might collapse. It is hard to believe the amount of old fogeys that lurk on these forums just ready to pounce on anybody that insults their Junkos. Get a life guys.
How Stupid is StupidPosted by: Optimum  Replied on: 28 May 2016
My original intention of raising this subject was a consequence of a potentially life threatening situation Jayco has put Optimum owners in because of where they put the spare wheel carrier under the motor homes.

This was hazard well known to Jayco for years and I have literally a raft of emails to Jayco HQ about the danger this poses to owners when accessing the spare wheel under the motor home.

Enough said at this point however after years of requesting Jayco to remedy this situation I took it on myself to have the spare wheel mounted on a tow bar supported carrier.

Hence having to remove the sikaflexed wafer thin number plate for re-positioning for which I have received a lot of flak from trolls.
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 28 May 2016
Must admit I have not had a look under the Jayco motorhomes but why would that be any different to the spare wheel under the rear of my Landcruiser
How Stupid is StupidPosted by: Optimum  Replied on: 28 May 2016
Derick thanks for your reply.

The difference is the spare wheel is mounted under the original Fiat chassis (before the Jayco build) which is only accessible from the traffic side of the motor home.

I speak from experience after changing three wheels, two under 110 KPH traffic (these B Doubles don't slow down), where you have to crawl under the vehicle past the rear mounted grey water tank and while laying on your stomach on the boiling hot bitumen have to unlock the the toggle on the spare wheel lifter.

I know the Landcruiser set up and believe me it is nothing like the Fiat based Jayco motor home.

Having said that I am looking forward to getting our 100 year old camp over down next week so we will be looking up some of your recipes.
Who would have thoughtPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 29 May 2016
a headline of "How Stupid is Stupid" about a number plate and sikaflex was actually about a spare tyre and B doubles causing a "potentially life threatening situation" .
And what happened to "No I won't be coming back this site for advice because of sarcastic people like you. There are a lot more friendly sites where travellers can share their views". You never asked for advice!
Seems you just want to vent.
<< happy to help with realistic issues, where I have the ability, but annoyed with the subterfuge people go to for their own disgruntlement.
And btw,, the definition of troll "is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting arguments or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory messages" ,,,, the commencement of this thread
TrollsPosted by: Optimum  Replied on: 29 May 2016
Nomad246 please tell me which state you are in so I can avoid going there.
Travel Diary UsePosted by: MAxx  Replied on: 30 May 2016
Travel Diary Users,

This is a reminder that this forum is only to be used to share relevant Jayco related information and travel tips. For those who don't intend on using this forum for its intended use will be removed. This forum is of great benefit to our Jayco family & like minded owners and should always remain a friendly environment.

Jayco HQ
Number PlatePosted by: Davidofcoburg  Replied on: 30 May 2016
I don't know why you are directing you rant at Jayco, surely its the dealer who fits the number plate not the factory. Just the same as your car dealer does!
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1. double slideout 2. Satellite receiver Posted by: cheryl123 15 May 2016 8 Replies
21ft6inch Silverline 2015
Is it ok to use our slide-out slid into any position or should it always be fully extended?
Also - Can the Satking digital receiver be completely powered down or will it lose its information?
Posted by: Gezz  Replied on: 16 May 2016
We have a similar van - I relocated the 12V supply plug to the front side off cabinet and turn the Satking off when travelling - not using - free camping - very hot weather, with no issues. We always set the slide-out to the fully open or closed position as I am advised it will misalign (easily corrected). Probably the odd occasion will not be an issue but could it may be worth an email to Jayco to be sure.
Posted by: Boo53  Replied on: 16 May 2016
Posted by: Boo53  Replied on: 16 May 2016
Posted by: Boo53  Replied on: 16 May 2016
Posted by: Boo53  Replied on: 16 May 2016
Posted by: Boo53  Replied on: 16 May 2016
Hmm. I did post a reply, but only once. Not sure whats happening.

Whilst moving the slide out all the way in and/or out is preferable there could be occasional circumstances where only partial use is preferable.

On one night in Feb, on a trip to Tassie, we had extreme winds whilst all around and the little awning love the slide was flapping to the point where I thought its fixing could be damaged.

We slid the unit partly in which stopped the flapping, but left enough room to get past the bed to access the toilet
Posted by: Neil7  Replied on: 16 May 2016
There is no problem powering the decoder off, every time you move it has to re-scan anyway.
Slide out - partially extendedPosted by: Filbee  Replied on: 31 May 2016
During really bad weather, we tend to bring the slide "in" to reduce the amount of flapping of the slide's canvas awning. Works a treat.
Cheers, Filbee56
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Awning barrel LED and outside light using the same light switch Posted by: Grinch 15 May 2016 3 Replies
Hi
I have a 2013 21.66-3 Sterling which I purchased this year. It has the LED lights in the barrel of the awning and the outside light wired to the same sphere light switch. When i checked the programming of the switch it appears they are on the same circuit. Does anyone know where the wires would be joined?
Would it be at the light on the side if the van or possibly at the sphere controller as I want to separate them. My awning is getting a yellow mark as the heat from the strip light is damaging it and I don't always want to rollout the awning when I want to have an outside light on.
Thanks for your assistance
Regards
Anthony
Posted by: Jaycomuddy  Replied on: 22 May 2016
Anthony. Jayco lights are wireless in that there is no physical connection between the switch and the light which it controls. The switches are programmable by the dealer and the two lights you mention must be on separate circuits else you cant use the under awning light when the awning is rolled up. Talk to your local dealer who can reprogram these for you
AWNING BARREL LED AND OUTSIDE LIGHT USING THE SAME LIGHT SWITCH Posted by: Grinch  Replied on: 30 May 2016
Hi
Thanks for the reply. I checked the sphere controller in the cupboard by pressing the button twice and both lights came on together. The wires must loop from the barrel light to outside wall light then to the sphere controller in the cupboard. I know the light switches can be programmed but in this case it appears they have decided to hard wire the fittings together and use the same circuit.
I can't figure out how to take the external wall light cover off without breaking it to see if I am correct.
I guess the outside lights will only be used now when the awning is out or I may disconnect the barrel light altogether.
Once again thanks for your assistance
Cheers
Anthony
AWNING BARREL LED AND OUTSIDE LIGHT USING THE SAME LIGHT SWITCH Posted by: Filbee  Replied on: 31 May 2016
We had the same issue Anthony, so our Jayco dealer installed a new switch for the wall light, leaving the awning LED switched from near the door. However, the new wall light switch in halfway down the caravan, which is absolutely useless. So I have moved the switch closer to the front door, to be more practical.
What I am annoyed about is the fact that over 40 of the awning LED lights have failed - awning is 2 years old. At this rate, we'll have to replace the LED strip at the 5 year mark.
Cheers, Filbee56
PS. Look in side the overhead cupboards for a dome looking plastic cover located immediately behind the wall light. From this point you can isolate both the awning light and the wall light.
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Missing tare weight on compliance plate Posted by: HMG2012 28 Apr 2016 7 Replies
I am wondering why my caravan has a blank space where the tare weight should be recorded. It is a Nov 13 built Sterling outback. Does anyone else have this? Also will this cause me any issues when i either sell or trade it.
regards,
Heather
Posted by: The Gypsy 2  Replied on: 28 Apr 2016
Not sure what state your van is registered in but apparently the tare weight is not required in NSW. One would wonder why they don't just put it on all caravans when they are putting all the other weights on though.
missing tare weightPosted by: HMG2012  Replied on: 30 Apr 2016
Thanks. The van is was purchased and bought new in NSW and is NSW registered. It just seemed strange when all 4 of the other vans I have owned had it. So it could cause issues if i were to sell it to someone in a different State I would think, as they would require it, if that is true.
regards,
Heather
Missing tare weightPosted by: Unrool  Replied on: 30 Apr 2016
the easy fix is to drill out the rivets and take the plate to a trophy place to get it engraved. Would only cost around $10 unless you know someone with an engraver. I'd consider getting it done in the event you happen to get pulled over for a random check, it cause you a few problems.
Posted by: iTrek  Replied on: 24 May 2016
Our dealer is in NSW and I'm in Vic, same here no Tare etched in the plate. But amongst all the handover stuff was a Jayco weighbridge Tare weight certificate which was dated and time stamped with Jayco details , etc
Have a look in the handover package for it.
Posted by: JAYCOMUDDY  Replied on: 27 May 2016
The Tare weight has not appeared on Jayco compliance plates since a particularly officious Registry refused to register Jayco customers vans if the Tare on the plate was even a kilo different to that logged against the particular model with RMS. The tare weight of your van is certified on the weighbridge certificate you will have been given on picking up your van and should be produced in the event that you are asked for it. It is not a legal requirement to have this info on the plate however am unsure about removing it to engrave yourself. The screws are designed to not be removed without a special tool and its not necessary to remove it anyways so long as you keep the weighbridge certificate in your van.
Posted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 29 May 2016
Heather,
what does the registration papers indicate ,, is there a Tare weight listed ?
Plate removalPosted by: Filbee  Replied on: 31 May 2016
A pair of vice grips will easily assist in removing the compliance plate screws. I shifted our compliance plate so that I could use the back wall of the boot to put in storage boxes. The compliance plate is now in a more logical visible position.
Cheers, Filbee56
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Ball Weight for Silverlines Posted by: The Gypsy 2 24 Apr 2016 33 Replies
We took our Silverline to our local Weighbridge yesterday and our Ball Weight came in at 440. On our compliance plate inside our front boot it states the Maximum Ball Weight should be 240. The only thing we have in front boot is our generator and water hoses. Has anyone else had weight issues with their Silverlines. We have been told this is due to the incorrect position of the axles on these vans.
Ball Weight for Silverlines Posted by: Optimum  Replied on: 24 Apr 2016
Careful with criticism of Jayco whether be it constructive of negative.

I have had posts removed for less.

Posted by: Boo53  Replied on: 24 Apr 2016
I can't say we have any problem with our current van, a Silverline, but our last van which was a 2010 19.61 definitely suffered from the axles being set too far back. Ball weight was well over 350kg with just the bare necessities in the boot.

Moving the house battery from under the bed to over the axles removed 10kg off the ball, but still way too much
Posted by: Boo53  Replied on: 24 Apr 2016
Meant to ask, what model do you have
Posted by: The Gypsy 2  Replied on: 24 Apr 2016
21 foot 21.65.4
???? TBWPosted by: Don PL 5920  Replied on: 24 Apr 2016
We have a Silverline 25.78, and fully loaded the tow-ball weight is 220kgs. (Compliance 240kgs). I have weighed the caravan, and the tow-ball, on both weigh-bridge and tow-ball-scales and they are about the same.
I just have some difficulty with 440kgs on a 21. I would question how you weighed it on the weigh-bridge. 440kgs on the tow-ball would be interesting.
Posted by: Rodnirene  Replied on: 25 Apr 2016
Hi Gypsie, we too have a 21.65.4. The TBW unladen 220kg, max 270kg & that's what ours is on using TB scales. Haven't had it to weighbridge as yet.
Posted by: The Gypsy 2  Replied on: 26 Apr 2016
Hi Don we weighed the car and van together on the Weighbridge. We then backed the van off the Weighbridge until the axles were off then unhitched onto our hydraulic jack and drove the car off the Weighbridge. The man at the Weighbridge has been doing this for many years and has never come across this problem before.
Posted by: Whale  Replied on: 26 Apr 2016
it just doesn't sound right have a look here
http://www.caravanworld.com.au/features/1106/how-to-weigh-and-measure-your-rig/
is this what happened with you
Posted by: The Gypsy 2  Replied on: 26 Apr 2016
Thanks Whale. Just went on the site you suggested and have done our calculations and nothing adds up. All the figures are way over what they should be. Would be great if we could have someone with the exact same van as ours and have had theirs weighed to do a comparison.
ReplyPosted by: Don PL 5920  Replied on: 26 Apr 2016
Hello Gypsy 2, Thanks for your reply. The way you weighed the rig sounds right. I have bought a set of scales because the tow-ball weight is impossible to guess.
Just thinking from other threads, is there water in both water tanks, that weight just doesn't sound right.
Silverline tow ball weightPosted by: Brisand  Replied on: 26 Apr 2016
I have a 21.65.4 when fully loaded tow ball weight 265kg, I think there is something is wrong with your weigh bridge weight
Silverline Ball WeightPosted by: Gunnago  Replied on: 26 Apr 2016
Hello Gypsy. We also have a Silverline 21-65-4. In our opinion the design of this model makes it front heavy. The spare tyre, Hot water unit, stove, sink, fridge, microwave, Slide out pantry, lazy-susan pantry & in our Silverline the third water tank an additional 82Litres all fall forward of the front axles. Not to mention the 2 x 9kg gas bottles, front boot storage & one of the other two water tanks. Basicly 80% of of all storage is forward of the front axle. The storage area under the bed is very small & the only other storage of any substance is the linen cupboard area. In our opinion when caravan builders design a caravan a weight distribution PC program should be used to evenly distribute potential weight. Unfortunately Profit always takes precedent. To alter the chassis & wheel positions on every design takes money.

I can only suggest moving the spare wheel { approx 40Kg} to the rear. Contact your selling dealer & request a revised compliance plate with a Towball download increase to say 300Kg as we did. At least you may have some chance of getting it close to legal.

All the best & safe travels
Posted by: The Gypsy 2  Replied on: 27 Apr 2016
Thank you everyone your all your info. Yes we do have our water tanks full and are ready for travelling so fully loaded but not anything excessive just what you need to live and travel with. Gunnago you have hit the nail on the head with all the weight being in front of the axles. What can you say about caravan engineers and manufacturers - will leave that alone !!!!! We will do what you suggest and hope for the best 😄
Posted by: Gwb  Replied on: 27 Apr 2016
That is certainly a long way over the weight. It sounds more like pounds and not kg's. Did you get a second opinion on the weights at another set of scales or we see Repco has ball weight scales for $59 in their current catalogue. Hope you get it all sorted soon.
Geoff and Bev
Towball weightPosted by: Gunpilot  Replied on: 27 Apr 2016
We have the Silverline 21.65.4 (2014 model). Being a retired Commercial Pilot I am very particular about weights and balance. When we first picked up our van in 2014 the Max Towball Weight on the plate was 249kg. Weighing it on a weighbridge, and then buying a towball piston type scale, the towball weight when fully loaded for a trip (but only the rear water tank and one of the two water tanks forward of the wheels full) consistently came in at 265kgs. Was not happy with this when Max Tare is 3375kgs. Took van to Jayco and they inspected and then replated van to show max towball weight of 300kgs. This new max rating allows us to easily come in under the max allowed (and remain legal). Towed by a Mazda BT50 and is a dream to tow, very stable, especially with the Anderson Hitch fitted.

I would question the validity of the 400kg figure you say your towball weight currently is.
Tare 3375KgPosted by: Gunnago  Replied on: 27 Apr 2016
Hi Gunpilot
How did you come up with a Max tare weight of 3376Kg. Most Silverlines in the 21-65-4 Highway model come in at say 2600Kg at purchase. Add 475Kg std payload or 600Kg max payload if requested at time of sale. Only gives you 3075Kg or 3275Kg. Did you get 600Kg of payload. I did however 600Kg minus 3 x 82 litre water tanks, 22.5 litres of water in HWS, 2 x 8.5Kg of LPG . This equates to 285.5Kg before you even start putting anything else in. Leaving you with 314.5Kg if you had 600kg to start with before putting in clothes, bedding, books, food, generator, annex, matting, and the list goes on & on. It 's quite mind bending getting it within the specified weight limits. I personally can't see why the tare weight from factory does not include the gas, water and all additional accessories fitted before you sign the dotted line. Half of your allowance is generally taken by these. Know wonder so many travelers are most likely excessively over weight. By the way all tow vehicles suffer the same issues with being over weight. Generally everyone forgets the 250Kg + that is applied to your towball. Not to mention the tinny on the roof, the outboard, bull bar, winch,canopy, draw system and all the other accessories fitted. My hope for the future is that a day manufacturers will come to their senses & realize our needs & genuinely apply decent allowances. I personally have a big gripe with all the manufactures giving the impression of big 3500Kg towing capacities with twin cab utes that really can't.
Thats my rant for now.
Posted by: Woore  Replied on: 27 Apr 2016
We bought the 21.65.7 and it weighed in at 380kg on the ball with full tanks and not a lot of weight in the front. I spoke to a service chap at jayco and he said the axles are to far back, I'm turning my front water tanks (3 tanks) into a greywater tank (as it wont be used as often, fitting a new tank between the axles back as far as possible and fitting a rear box to put my genny in, its the only way I can hopefully get it back to 300kgs ish. I also had jayco raise the plate ball weigh to 350kgs, no sweat, good luck with it!
towball weightPosted by: Lionelo  Replied on: 28 Apr 2016
I really wonder what sort of vehicle you people are pulling these caravans with over 350kg ballweight. I also have to wonder why one would need 3 water tanks in front of their axles. If your van is front heavy, take the time to get the wheels relocated if you can't fix it by relocating all the junk you carry with you. It really doesn't surprise me to read regularly every single month about all the caravans and people splattered all over the highways. Accidents don't happen, they are caused. Mostly by idiots in poorly loaded caravans and unsuited tow toys.
ClarificationPosted by: Gunnago  Replied on: 28 Apr 2016
To clarify a few things. We use a Jeep Grand Cherokee 8 speed auto diesel with a genuine 3500Kg towing capacity with a genuine 350Kg tow ball download. And always make sure weight requirements are met. As for the water tanks, it's not 3 tanks forward of the axles it's 2 tanks. We free camp a lot this is why we went with the option offered by Jayco regarding the additional tank. These tanks are mounted by Jayco Factory and we have no say in where they are mounted. As for having the wheels repositioned after manufacture is generally not possible. You would have to alter the side walls, wheel arches & internal cupboards. It's just not viable. It's not our responsibility to make our caravans comply with regulations. It's the responsibility of the manufacturer. Unfortunately the Australian Design Rules are not specific enough regarding caravans and the way they are made. Consumers always pay the price for mistakes made by manufactureres. I'm a builder & plumber and get quite disappointed as to the lack of regulation as to how caravans are manufactured. I believe specific regulation is desperately needed now not later. People are not idiots they are mostly confused with the misinformation offered within the caravan industry. And to make a statement that accidents don't happen they are caused is misleading. Not every caravan accident is due to the driver & his so called poorly loaded caravan. There are far to many variables to calculate.
Ball weightPosted by: Hydro1  Replied on: 28 Apr 2016
Gypsy 2
If you are weighing at jockey wheel you are not getting ball weight it will be a lot higher,
You have to weigh at centre of coupling to obtain ball weight could be 100kg difference with the two points
Jeff
Posted by: Gunpilot  Replied on: 28 Apr 2016
Hi Gunnago
My bad, should have said ATM. Here are my weigh bridge and tow ball weights taken at beginning of this year before we headed over to SA. Decoupled van from car before weighing
Van 3250kgs
Ball Weight 255kgs


Posted by: RR  Replied on: 3 May 2016
We have a Silverline 21.65.3 Outback with 3 water tanks, 2 solar and 2 batteries under front club lounge. With water tanks plus gas full and spare gas for barbecue plus chocks and paraphernalia in front boot - tow ball weight is 320 kg as measured using a tow ball weight scale. Jayco upgraded compliance plate to 330 kg for us. Tare is 2695kg and ATM is 3295 kg as I asked for upgraded carrying capacity (increased to 600 kgs). Good outcome for us, very happy. We travel at about 3100 kg. Carry genie and WAECO in car.
Back AgainPosted by: The Gypsy 2  Replied on: 8 May 2016
Back AgainPosted by: The Gypsy 2  Replied on: 8 May 2016
To Gunnago and the other very helpful people on this site, a big thank you for your time and effort to help us with our Ball Weight problem. Just to keep you updated, our caravan is currently with a Jayco Warranty Agent who have confirmed our weight problem and also that this design of Jayco has 80% of the weight forward of the axles. This is currently being investigated and we will be following it through right to the end.
To the sarcastic Lionelo who only appears to have negative replies to anybodys enquiries, I suggest you find another site to run your negativity on as no-one is interested in your crap. But just to answer your questions, firstly we have a Landcruiser not a mini minor , secondly we have no crap in our van and had you bothered to read our first discussion we advised we only had a genie and hoses in our front boot, thirdly only an half wit like you would even think of relocating the axles - this is by far the stupidest comment I have ever read in my life and finally yes accidents are caused and more often than not they will be caused by a brainless idiot like you who should be confined to their lounge room and not driving on our roads.
Will let all the interested people know of the outcome when we have one.
Posted by: Red67  Replied on: 8 May 2016
Thanks Gypsy 2. You beat me to replying. Lionelo, if you have nothing worthwhile to add, don't add anything at all. We have a 20" expanda with a slide out and have the same issue as you. Very high ball weight due to the slide out location and the 3 factory water tanks. Like you Gypsy, while this is annoying, it is not a massive drama as we also tow with a landcruiser 200 so it is more than up to the task. I cannot see any way to fix it, as you have rightly pointed out, only a redesign will fix the issue
Cheers
Posted by: Lionelo  Replied on: 15 May 2016
Yep, redesign definitely needed. Move the axles. It can and should be done. It is not impossible. Next time you blokes buy a van, don't let the wife pick it on the colour of the curtains. Do some homework. I might sound grumpy, but I don't seek advice from forums on how to solve my problems relating to safety. I do the homework first and buy accordingly. And shifting stuff to the rear of your van will make it even more unsafe. Do your homework. Ask somebody that knows, not some clown that says " my cruiser tows it with ease" that means nothing. If you feel I am a bit hard, Google up "caravan crash Australia". Take particular note of 2 (of 3) this month that they said were "fishtailing" just before. Then tell me who the idiots are.
SilverlinesPosted by: Don PL 5920  Replied on: 15 May 2016
In defense of Silverlines, this is not a general problem. Gypsy2 caravan seems to have a particular problem, even all 21's do not have a problem. It would be very difficult to move the axles for a lot of reasons.
The bit od sense from Lionleo's thread is, we should weigh the ball weight before we take delivery, and not rely on the compliance plate information.
Posted by: Ghostgum  Replied on: 17 May 2016
Have heard Jayco are considering removing 'Max Tow Ball Weight' figures compliance plates (at least for Silverlines) with 'Not Applicable' (or presumably just N/A). This might solve the legal issue of high ball weights not complying with the manufacturers stated max load rating, which does appear to be too low for many owners, but where does this leave the owners? How do they know how much load can safely be applied to their towball if the 'van manufacturer doesn't tell you? How is this Max Weight calculated anyway?
TOWBAR MAXPosted by: Don PL 5920  Replied on: 17 May 2016
I have a 100 Series Cruiser and the tow-bar max is 350kgs I am pretty sure. So Gypsy2's 440kgs is not a tad over, it out of the park over, and illegal. The WA rural firetrucks were over-weight on the front wheels, so counter-weights were added (on the back) to fix the problem. That would not work on a caravan, and make the "fix" worse than the problem. Scrubbing the ball weight maximum would not solve anything. If it actually 440kgs weighed on the tow-ball it is a major problem.
Posted by: Woore  Replied on: 26 May 2016
I agree, Lionelos a wanker! Shouldnt shoot your mouth off mate, people spend 70k on a new van they expect it to be legal. I cant stand keyboard heros like you mate so why dont you disappear to another sight that likes dheads like yourself you goose!
Legal IssuePosted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 27 May 2016
Is this a legal issue?? My understanding of the legislation is that there is no mention of the caravan having to have a maximum towball weight on the compliance plate. The legislation refers to the vehicle towball capacity. For example my LC200 Cruiser has a maximum capacity of 350 kg so as long as the actual mass of the towball does not exceed 350 kg then then it is legal. I thought the maximum towball weight on the Jayco compliance was more to do with warranty than anything else. This would reflect in the fact that I know a lot of people who Jayco have changed the plate to show over 300 kg. I believe Jayco are one of the few manufacturers who actually do it.

I could be wrong but that is my take on it.

I have a 2014 Silverline 21.65-4 Outback. Only two water tanks (one in front and one behind the suspension system) and because an Outback the spare is at the rear so I guess that balances it more. Have never had the towball weight over 270 kg (regularly checked with towball scales) and that was with a generator in the front boot. We lived in the van for 5 months while our house was being built so it was packed pretty well.

I think people are right in saying it is not all models that have this excessive towball problem.

I hope you get it sorted soon Gypsy as they are a lovely van to tour around in. We are currently on the road again for six months heading through southern NSW, Victoria and SA but I am getting tired of muddy road works :)
woorePosted by: Lionelo  Replied on: 27 May 2016
You need to get back on your medication Woore. You have nothing to contribute, just mouthing off. Sounds like you probably made the same mistake. The van in question would be manufactured legal. The purchaser has obviously overloaded the front end and not done his homework.
Ball-weight from newPosted by: Filbee  Replied on: 31 May 2016
We too have a 21.65-4 model Silverline (2014), and I checked the ball-weight when the van was brand new and still in the Jayco yard - empty water tanks, empty HWS (??), no gas bottles, etc - stock standard accessories direct from Melbourne factory. Ball-weight came in at 180kg.
Now, with van packed for holidays - full gas bottles, full water tanks (qty 2), full HWS, and all the other paraphernalia that we like to carry, the ball-weight is around the 270kg. Placing ourHonda 2KVA in the front boot pushes me up considerably towards 300kg.
One of the restriction that we do need to be cognizant of is the ball weight for the Eaz-Lift WDH = 270kg.
So, it is one hell of a juggling act to get the weights correct, not only for the van, but also for the tow vehicle.
And everyone's caravan is so very different - individual preferences for the type of "home" comforts that we like to carry.
Cheers, Filbee56

2013 LC200 TTD with GVM upgrade to 3800kg. I like to be legal, and SAFE.
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Roll out awning question Posted by: Andyr66 2 Apr 2016 7 Replies
Hi all, just a quick question. On our first trip out I noticed just about everyone has their awning open. This is our first van, I was told by the dealer to never leave it open as it will rip off if there a bit of wind and is not a warranty item. I openned it once but as soon as there was a slight breeze and it flapped I closed it in fear of it being destroyed. Is it safe to just peg it to the ground with the legs attached to the van or should it be in carport mode? Anything else I should be aware of?
AwningPosted by: Brisand  Replied on: 2 Apr 2016
Either configuration is ok, make sure you have a rope from the awning roll tying it down on either end also use your annex anti flap on either end and also get two curved bars to stop awning flapping.
Posted by: Pmg57  Replied on: 2 Apr 2016
We have a 16.7 StarCraft pop top and we always have our awning open with the legs down and secured where able, not left fixed to the van as most do, we have the proper anti flat kits and proper end made, we have been away when it was blowing up to 50-60 klm winds and was fine, prior to this we used to use the deflapper straps on our first van and these worhed ok as well
AWNINGPosted by: Tsvvegas  Replied on: 3 Apr 2016
When had our first van and newbies to caravanning, we met a couple in Gawler whose car had been damaged by a neighbours vans awning. During a freak wind storm the awning with legs out lifted out of the ground, flipped over the van and the legs broke the passenger window and gouged the roof of their new Landcruiser parked close to the off side of their neighbours rig. I went straight to the nearest camp store to buy some guy ropes and heavy duty pegs (still use them on our new van). Always angle the pegs away from the van before driving them in. Cheap insurance long term.
AwningPosted by: Commodore  Replied on: 3 Apr 2016
Best advice given to me if it looks to be windy roll it up. Ok if you are there but if you are going out for the day and things look doubtful roll it up.
Thank you Posted by: Andyr66  Replied on: 3 Apr 2016
awningPosted by: Kwg  Replied on: 14 May 2016
I agree tie down with 2 ropes each corner and peg feet to ground I also run a flat strap over awning length wise and loop around horizontal bars and then ropes to ground, this helps to stop awning lifting also fit the proper antiflap bars on each end and curved rod in middle. Also fitting shade screens on 3 sides and pegging down gives more stability. I have weathered some pretty strong winds with this setup not something you will do for aquick stop.
Awning - in or out.Posted by: Filbee  Replied on: 31 May 2016
Hello Andyr66,
If ever in doubt of the weather, we roll it in.
Don't forget to drop one corner of the awning to allow water to roll off - just needs to be one hole lower. (Great for collecting water during free-staying). And, always drop the corner that allows the water to run away from the van and not into the covered area.
We've replaced the screw in the end of the awning's plastic cover and installed a stainless steel eye bolt to which we attach a tie-down rope to secure the awning.
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Optimum Motorhome Owners Posted by: Optimum 30 May 2016 0 Replies
This post is directed at Optimum motorhome owners from 2007 to at least 2010 which are fitted with aftermarket alloy rims.

We found out the hard way that the aftermarket rims will not fit into the spare wheel carrier and as a consequence the flat will have to be carried inside the motorhome.

Jayco have known about this issue since I raised it back in 2008 and have since tried to rectify it on subsequent motorhomes with different spare wheel carrier configurations.

This added to the dangerous situation of having to crawl under the motorhome to access the spare wheel should be known before a puncture or blowout under traffic.

A good idea is to make sure you can access the spare by lowering it to the ground and removing the toggle before you leave on your trip. It's not as easy as it sounds because once you undo the threaded nut on the toggle you then have to raise the wheel (40 plus kgs) two inches so you can remove the toggle.

Try this while lying on your stomach with no room to move your arms. Anyone over 100 kg should not try this exercise.



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Gray water tank odour Posted by: Wisscon 28 May 2016 8 Replies
We own a 2015 Silverline and have just noticed a disgusting smell coming from the gray water tank. Is there an additive or cleaner we should be using to prevent this smell?
Gray water tank odour Posted by: Optimum  Replied on: 28 May 2016
From our experience with two motor homes Jayco haven't figured out water runs down hill. We reworked both grey water systems.

I also plumbed in a inlet in the side of the tank where I could flush out the tank on a regular basis.
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 28 May 2016
One of the best things is good old Home Brand Laundry Soaker from Woollies. Dissolve one and a half caps of it in about a litre of warm water and pour it down the drain. Let it slosh around in there while you drive for a while.

Do that regularly.
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 28 May 2016
If you are a handyman you can fit a one way valve on the inlet side of the tank to prevent any smells coming back up. Hepvo make them - http://www.hepvo.com/

Regardless of any valve you should also use the laundry soaker egularly to prevent bacteria build up.

Cheers
Are Grey Water Tanks NecessaryPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 29 May 2016
This sums up a view that grey water tanks are more of a problem than a benefit.
After the grey water has been stored for a short time it becomes black water, hence the smell.
grey water tank.Posted by: Bosun2012  Replied on: 29 May 2016
In the olden days you had at your home a septic tank and a gully trap for grey water. Both stank! Both were filthy. If you put a grey water tank in a caravan expect it to stink.
grey water tank.Posted by: Bosun2012  Replied on: 29 May 2016
In the olden days you had at your home a septic tank and a gully trap for grey water. Both stank! Both were filthy. If you put a grey water tank in a caravan expect it to stink.
grey water tank.Posted by: Bosun2012  Replied on: 29 May 2016
In the olden days you had at your home a septic tank and a gully trap for grey water. Both stank! Both were filthy. If you put a grey water tank in a caravan expect it to stink.
grey water tank.Posted by: Bosun2012  Replied on: 29 May 2016
In the olden days you had at your home a septic tank and a gully trap for grey water. Both stank! Both were filthy. If you put a grey water tank in a caravan expect it to stink.
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Reversing camera Posted by: Kimrob 28 May 2016 2 Replies
Want to install a second camera on my tow vehicle as the Sphere is a dual feed. Purchased camera which has rca connectors however system supplied with our Silverline does not have the additional wiring. Went online because the Jayco brochure says it is in fact a Tft system and when supplied elsewhere it comes with a heap of other wires. Contacted Brisbane Camperland and was referred to an auto electrician. As I have already had an auto electrician install the Sphere monitor and he couldn't install the second camera I didn't need another one. Has anyone successfully installed a second camera and if so how?
Reversing CameraPosted by: Gusbh  Replied on: 29 May 2016
Hi Kimrob, I had one installed on my tow vehicle, first attempt not so good, had them take it off.
I went to Autobarn and they fitted the camera with success, [$180] complete. When you select
reverse, the camera is on, when your van is on, select V1 and your van reverse camera comes on.
Hope this helps. Regards, Garry.
Reversing cameraPosted by: Kimrob  Replied on: 29 May 2016
Thanks Garry I'll venture down the road to Autobarn. Frustrating though as I purchased a second camera online but even my auto electrician didn't know how to install it as the Sphere doesn't appear to have all the wires.
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Silverline Cupboard Latches Posted by: Davidofcoburg 9 Mar 2016 14 Replies
Yesterday whilst camped at Capel Sound a fellow Silverline owner camped across from me told me of problem he had with the cupboard latches on his one year old Silverline. Apparently the actuating pin which is screwed into the door handle (see photo of the handle which shows the pin) worked loose and fell out inside the cupboard meaning he could not open the cupboard.

He tried all manner of ideas to try and trip the latch from the exterior and was unsuccessful so he eventually had to force the door causing damage in the process. He then went and coated the threads on every latch pin with loctite to avoid the problem occurring again.

Taking his lead I removed one of my latches and found the pin almost out. Next I checked the latch on the pantry door which is the most used and again the pin was close to falling out. I'm now in the process of checking all of my latches and coating the threads of the pins with Loctite. I'm not expecting the latch pins of the lesser used doors to be as undone but they will all be addressed.
The pins have quite a long thread so it might be some time before yours fall out, take action now. You have been advised!
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 9 Mar 2016
Thanks David, will check mine out.
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 9 Mar 2016
Also shared this on the Jayco Silverline Owners Facebook Group.

Thanks again
Latch PinsPosted by: Davidofcoburg  Replied on: 9 Mar 2016
I've just finished checking all of the latch pins, here are the stats:

22 Latches of the type concerned
5 pins not loose (finger tight only)
4 pins ready to fall out
13 pins in various stages of being unscrewed

Note: the pins have approximately 10 turns of thread on them.
Posted by: Derek Bullock  Replied on: 9 Mar 2016
Well that was a very worthwhile exercise. I have nineteen of these catches.

Only one required any pressure to remove the pin. The rest were all loose.

One in the bathroom actually only required half a turn to come out. Many were a good one and a half to two turns loose.

All done now and well worth the seventeen odd dollars for the loctite.
Posted by: Davidofcoburg  Replied on: 9 Mar 2016
Derek's another happy customer!
FINGER TIGHTPosted by: Don PL 5920  Replied on: 10 Mar 2016
Thanks for he advice. Checked ours and they are just finger tight. They are simple to check.
CatchesPosted by: Nearly there  Replied on: 13 Mar 2016
Thanks David
Checked al 25 in our motor home and most were loose , tightened them and will loctite when we get home
Thanks for telling us

Gerry
LatchesPosted by: Gunpilot  Replied on: 13 Mar 2016
Finished inspection

Tally
Of 18 latches inspected:

11 were tight
3 were a minor half turn loose
2 were one turn loose
2 were two turns loose

Overall they were still very secure....locktited all bar one that was so tight I could not undo.

What I did find however was that a number of latch screws had little purchase when screwing back in.
LatchesJust checked my SilverlinePosted by: Silver1  Replied on: 13 Mar 2016
LatchesPosted by: Silver1  Replied on: 13 Mar 2016
Sorry for the previous hiccup.
Just checked my Silverline.
Total catches 22
15 catches finger tight
5 Just slightly loose
2 very loose.
All now have locktite.
Van has not down 100 km yet.
Many screws holding latches on had little purchase.
Still a great van, and this is only a mild inconvenience.
LatchesPosted by: Masso  Replied on: 14 Mar 2016
My audit showed similar to Silver 1 above...especially regarding the screws holding latches having minimal purchase...hence should breakin be required.. i reckon those latches would pull out of the doors pretty easily..
Loose Latch PinsPosted by: Ghostgum  Replied on: 19 May 2016
Thanks for the heads-up David. Can you please tell me what type of Loctite you used - they make so many different varieties as I recall.
Posted by: Luckyone  Replied on: 25 May 2016
use the blue one and don't use a lot
Just a QuestionPosted by: Nomad246  Replied on: 29 May 2016
Interested in the "loose" actuator pin on this cupboard handle.
No body has mentioned the screws that attach the latch (grey plastic) to the rear of the door that are potentially nearly stripped into the wood panel?
The handle is attached by through bolts but the grey latch only affixes to the thin wood door.
After seeing this thread I checked 3 of my handles with no real issues found with the pin. However all 3 had a very poor screw attachment of the (grey plastic) latch to the cupboard wood.
On our previous Silverline the 'grey plastic' latch came adrift from the pantry door due to a striped latch screw.
Most all other doors with this handle do not have the same internal force as the pantry slide.